The quarare, boiled fava beans, and the music of the Madonie for the patron saint John the Baptist
The Saint John's Festival is one of the most beloved traditional events in Castelbuono, a village in the Province of Palermo nestled in the heart of the Madonie Park, in Sicily. Every year, on the day of the patron saint Saint John the Baptist, June 24th, the streets of the historic center and Piazza Castello come alive with fires, aromas, and music, in a celebration that intertwines devotion, gastronomy, and neighborhood social life.
The absolute stars are the quarare, large copper vessels fueled by oak wood, placed along the streets and in the liveliest districts of the town. Inside these cauldrons, dried fava beans and potatoes boil for hours, which are then offered for free to passersby along with a glass of good local wine. The fava beans, a symbol of gratitude for the harvest and prosperity, are the ritual dish of the festival: a shared tasting that renews the sense of community every year.
The custom of lighting fires in the streets during the night of Saint John has roots in ancient, even pre-Christian rites linked to the summer solstice. In Castelbuono, popular tradition connects the bonfires to the memory of the sacrilege of Julian the Apostate, who in 361 had the relics of the Baptist burned. The festival was once accompanied by rites such as the comparatico and commaratico, sacred bonds of friendship sworn before the saint, and the piluseddi, ancient divinatory rites using small sticks and scrolls to ask for graces from Saint John.
The free tasting of fava beans, boiled potatoes, and wine is accompanied by traditional games and roaming musical groups that traverse the village streets with mandolins, guitars, and accordions. In Piazza Castello, the appointment with Madonie flavors proposed by the Castelbuono Restaurant Association is also renewed. Between one steaming fava bean and the next, the party continues with laughter, singing, and joy until late at night.
The festival is organized by the Pro Loco of Castelbuono APS with the contribution of the municipal administration and actively involves the town's districts. For some years now, the event has also taken on a strong plastic-free footprint, with compostable tableware and glasses at all stations. A special recognition, the award for the best quarara, is assigned by evaluating the setup, hospitality, quality and taste of the products offered, the use of wood fires, the display of a painting depicting Saint John, and compliance with the plastic-free theme: the prize consists of a work of art depicting the event itself.
The 2026 edition of the Saint John's Festival in Castelbuono takes place on June 24th, the patron saint's day. The Pro Loco of Castelbuono APS calls on the neighborhoods to set up the quarare, the large wood-fired copper cauldrons in which fava beans and potatoes boil to be offered for free to everyone.
Along the streets of the historic center and in Piazza Castello, the free tasting of fava beans, boiled potatoes, and wine is renewed, accompanied by traditional games and roaming musical groups. The award for the best quarara is confirmed, assigned based on setup, hospitality, product quality, use of wood fires, display of a painting of Saint John, and compliance with the plastic-free theme.
June 24th, the day of Saint John the Baptist. The fires under the quarare are lit in the late afternoon and the festival continues until late at night.
Piazza Castello and the streets of the historic center of Castelbuono (PA), in the Madonie Park.
By car: from Palermo, take the A19 motorway to the Buonfornello exit, then the SS113 and SP9 towards the Madonie. By train: Castelbuono station on the Palermo-Messina line, connected to the center by bus. Reference airport: Palermo Falcone-Borsellino.
The tasting of fava beans, potatoes, and wine at the quarare is free.
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Piazza Castello e vie del centro storico