La Zeza of Cesinali – Carnival

La Zeza of Cesinali: when carnival becomes theatre

In the heart of the Sabato Valley, just a few kilometers from Avellino, the Municipality of Cesinali preserves one of the most vibrant carnival traditions in Campania: La Zeza, officially recognized as Intangible Heritage of the Campania Region. This is no mere masquerade parade, but a genuine piece of popular theatre, acted and sung, that spills out from homes into the squares, courtyards, and streets of the town throughout the Carnival season.

An ancient popular comedy

La Zeza has its roots in 17th-century Neapolitan theatre and the Commedia dell'Arte. The plot revolves around the domestic conflict between Pulcinella, a jealous and suspicious father, and his wife Zeza, who instead encourages the courtship of their daughter — known in the Cesinali version as Porzia — by Don Zenobbio, a student from Calabria. Surrounding the protagonists are the capozeza, with his wooden sword and broken French, Don Bartolo, the flower girl Cosetta, and other grotesque figures, all amidst bawdy jokes, songs, dances, and final quadrilles.

In the second half of the 19th century, the performance was banned from the streets due to its allegedly licentious allusions, finding refuge in popular theatres and the countryside: this is how La Zeza became deeply rooted in the towns of Irpinia. One rule, however, has never changed and remains to this day: all roles, including female parts, are played by men, just as it was when women were not permitted to perform in public.

A traveling carnival in the Sabato Valley

La Zeza of Cesinali does not remain within municipal borders: the troupe is itinerant, bringing its show to neighboring towns in the Province of Avellino during the Carnival, acting as a true cultural glue between neighboring communities. In recent years, stops have included:

• Atripalda, with participation in the Atripalda Carnival;
• Avellino, with a parade along Corso Vittorio Emanuele;
• Altavilla Irpina and San Michele di Serino, as guests of their respective carnivals;
• Aiello del Sabato, a stop that kicks off Shrove Tuesday;
• Cesinali, with performances in front of local businesses and shops.

The final Zezone around the bonfire

The most anticipated moment is the Zezone, the concluding performance on Shrove Tuesday in Piazza Enrico Cocchia, in the historic center. The town gathers around the focarone, the great carnival bonfire, where the troupe gives its final and longest performance of the season, with the audience singing and dancing alongside the actors. In the afternoon, before the Zezone, there is also space for the little ones with the children's Zeza gathering in Piazza Saverio Urciuoli, featuring entertainment and mascots.

Carnival flavors

The festival is also a gastronomic event, with the featured dish changing from year to year according to Irpinian peasant tradition: the Gnocchi and Cotechino Sausage in Sauce Festival in 2026, and the Grilled Pork Festival in 2025. In both cases, local wine is offered to those present, in a convivial atmosphere that continues into the evening with DJ music.

Who keeps the tradition alive

The event is promoted by the La Zeza of Cesinali association together with the Pro Loco Cesinali and the Municipality of Cesinali, with the support of the Campania Region. It is a work of transmission that involves different generations: the youngest learn the verses and movements from the elders of the troupe, ensuring the continuity of an oral repertoire.

Why it is worth the trip

The Zeze of Irpinia — in Cesinali, Mercogliano, Bellizzi, and Montemiletto — are one of the rare cases where the Italian Carnival has preserved its original theatrical form instead of turning into a parade of allegorical floats. Attending the Zezone of Cesinali means seeing a piece of Campanian popular culture up close, still practiced by the community that created it: dialect, music, satire, and shared food, without any tourist filters.