The February 2nd pilgrimage to Mamma Schiavona, featuring tammorre, devotion, and civil rights
On February 2nd, the day of the Candelora (Candlemas), the Sanctuary of Montevergineโa Benedictine abbey overlooking Mount Partenio in the territory of Mercogliano, in the province of Avellinoโbecomes the heart of one of Campania's most unique festivals. Pilgrims, musical groups, and curious visitors arrive from Naples, Irpinia, and across the region for the blessing of the candles and to pay homage to the Madonna with the dark face, whom everyone here calls Mamma Schiavona, "she who grants all and forgives all."
"Juta" in the Neapolitan dialect means ascent: it is the pilgrimage, once entirely on foot, that leads from the valley to the basilica's square. Legend has it that in the 13th century, two young lovers, caught together and left tied on the mountain to die of cold, were freed and saved by the Virgin. From that legend stems the deep bond between the sanctuary, the Neapolitan femminielli, and, today, the entire LGBTQIA+ community, which climbs to Montevergine every Candelora to seek protection and to be recognized as they are. Chronicles attest to the presence of this ritual as early as the modern era, and since 2002, the day has also taken on an explicit value of civil advocacy.
The soundtrack of the Candelora is that of the traditional folk music of Campania: paranze groups with tammorre drums, castanets, and voices perform tammurriate and devotional songs on the sanctuary square, while dancers take turns in a circle. Brightly colored clothes, handkerchiefs, ex-votos, and candles accompany a ritual that seamlessly blends Catholic liturgy and folk culture: people pray, sing, dance, and then share a meal together.
A landslide on November 25th swept away the provincial road leading to the sanctuary, isolating Montevergine for months. For the first time in decades, on February 2, 2026, the Juta could not reach the basilica: the celebration moved to the Church of the Annunziata in Mercogliano, where Father Vitaliano Della Sala welcomed pilgrims and femminielli. The climb to the sanctuary was postponed rather than cancelled; the gradual reopening of access routes, first on foot and by funicular and later by road, restored Montevergine to its pilgrims the following spring.
What makes the Candelora of Montevergine unique is the coexistence of different layers: the authentic Marian devotion of thousands of Irpinian and Campanian faithful, the intangible heritage of the tammurriate, and the historical presence of trans and homosexual individuals welcomed at the feet of the Black Madonna. It is a contemporary religious festival, followed every year by national media, local mayors, and public figures, and experienced by locals as an integral part of their identity.
The town of Mercogliano, at the foot of Mount Partenio, is the natural starting point for the juta: from here, the funicular climbs the slope toward the abbey in just a few minutes, and here you can find the Palazzo Abaziale del Loreto and the establishments that welcome pilgrims. Nearby, Irpinia offers forests, villages, and mountain gastronomy that complete the festive day.
On February 2, 2026, the Sanctuary of Montevergine was still inaccessible due to the landslide of November 25th, which had wiped out several hairpin bends of the provincial road connecting Mercogliano and Ospedaletto d'Alpinolo. The pilgrimage toward Mamma Schiavona was therefore postponed, but not cancelled.
The Juta moved to the Church of the Annunziata in Mercogliano, where Father Vitaliano Della Sala โ who had already opened the doors of his parish to the femminielli community in 2002 โ welcomed the pilgrims by celebrating mass and the blessing of the candles. Some liturgical readings were entrusted to trans people and drag performers, an event hailed as historic by the organizers.
After the liturgy, the celebration continued as tradition dictates, with a shared lunch, toasts, and the "tombola scostumata" (naughty bingo), in the presence of representatives of the Associazione Trans Napoli (ATN), the mayor of Mercogliano, and numerous faithful who arrived from Naples and Irpinia.
Monday, February 2, 2026 โ Mercogliano (AV)
The pilgrimage to the Sanctuary of Montevergine was postponed until the road was secured: the sanctuary became accessible again on foot and by funicular in the spring, while the provisional reopening of the access road took place on May 24, 2026.
By car: Take the Avellino Ovest exit on the A16 motorway, then follow signs for Mercogliano; the access road to the sanctuary winds up Mount Partenio (always check traffic conditions, as they may be affected by roadwork following the previous November's landslide).
By funicular: The Montevergine funicular departs from Mercogliano and reaches the sanctuary in about seven minutes. Service is most frequent on weekends and holidays; parking is available at the valley station.
On foot: Historic pilgrimage trails lead up from Mercogliano and Ospedaletto d'Alpinolo.
Participation in the celebrations is free. The funicular round-trip ticket costs approximately 5 euros (single trip about 4 euros, with discounts for under-18s, over-65s, residents, and groups).
Sanctuary of Montevergine, Mercogliano (AV) โ phone +39 0825 72924, official website santuariodimontevergine.it.
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Santuario di Montevergine
Localitร Montevergine, 83013 Mercogliano