San Felice Patronal Festival (Fair and Festival of the Tutero and the Umbrella)

The Patronal Festival of Nola

In the town of Nola, in the province of Naples, November 15th is the most significant date of the autumn. The city comes to a standstill to honor San Felice, the city's patron saint and a figure deeply linked to the origins of the local Church, venerated as both bishop and martyr. Over the centuries, a calendar has evolved around this solemnity, blending liturgy, folklore, gastronomy, and community life—what the locals simply call the San Felice festival.

The Tutero and the Umbrella

The symbol of the festival is the tutero, an elongated Nola-style torrone made with hazelnuts, sugar, and honey. Tradition dictates that boyfriends and husbands gift it to their sweethearts accompanied by an umbrella: the sweet as a wish for prosperity, and the umbrella as a sign of protection—and a highly practical accessory during the often rainy month of November. It is an ancient popular custom, passed down through generations, which has given the festival its secondary name: the Fair and Festival of the Tutero and the Umbrella.

The San Felice Fair in Piazza Duomo

During the festival, Piazza Duomo and the streets of the historic center are adorned with festive lights and bustling stalls. Alongside vendors selling umbrellas, toys, and seasonal goods, the place of honor is reserved for local pastry shops, which showcase Nola-style torrone in its many varieties—hazelnut, chocolate, soft, or crunchy. In recent years, the fair has been enriched by the 'Torrone in Festa' event, featuring workshops, live cooking shows, and tastings dedicated to Campanian hazelnuts and local confectionery excellence. Stalls are generally open in the morning and from late afternoon until evening.

Religious Rites

The devotional heart of the festival remains the procession of the Silver Bust of San Felice, which departs from the Cathedral on the eve of the feast, November 14th, winding through the city streets among the faithful. On November 15th, the Cathedral of Nola hosts solemn masses and the Pontifical Mass presided over by the Bishop; the crypt housing the saint's relics is opened for veneration. The solemnity is preceded by a novena of preparation in the days leading up to the event.

Music, Shows, and Family Activities

The secular program complements the religious one with a series of events spread throughout the city: fireworks in Piazza Duomo, concerts in churches and public spaces, traditional Neapolitan street music (posteggia), cultural walks exploring the ancient center, the presentation of the 'Premio Felix' at the Archaeological Museum of the Agro Nolano, and a day dedicated to children, 'San Felice dei Piccoli,' with games and entertainment in the historic center. The Pro Loco of Nola traditionally hosts the 'tutero' festival at its headquarters on Corso Tommaso Vitale.

Nola, City of Festivals

Nola is known worldwide for the Festa dei Gigli in June, recognized by UNESCO as intangible cultural heritage. For the people of Nola, however, San Felice holds equal emotional weight: it is the festival of autumn, of returning home, of sweets, and of gifts. Visiting it means discovering a less touristy and more authentic side of the province of Naples, just a few kilometers from the regional capital and a short distance from Mount Vesuvius.

How to Experience the Festival

• When: Around November 15th, with key moments on the 14th (procession) and 15th (solemnity).
• Where: Piazza Duomo, the Cathedral, and the historic center of Nola.
• Admission: Free for the fair and public square events.
• Must-try: The 'tutero' and other varieties of Nola-style torrone.
• What to bring: An umbrella, which here is both a necessity and a symbol.