Processione dei Cornuti

An ancient ritual at the foot of the Majella

The Processione dei Cornuti is one of the most curious and distinctive folk traditions in Abruzzo. It takes place in San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore, a small village in the province of Pescara overlooking the Orfento Valley and the Majella massif, on the eve of St. Martin's Day, traditionally November 10th. On this date, according to popular culture, St. Martin is considered the patron saint of betrayed husbands, as well as winemakers and new wine, which is why a playful and liberating procession is dedicated to him.

The legend of St. Martin and its pagan origins

The tradition links the festival to the legend of the saint, described as a brother so protective that he accompanied his sister everywhere to guard her virtue, only to discover months later that the disobedient young woman had tied herself to a suitor anyway. Hence the association between St. Martin and those who have been deceived in love. The ritual takes place at the end of the Capetièmpe cycle, the peasant new year that began on October 31st, and blends the sacred and the profane, recalling ancient agrarian and propitiatory cults linked to fertility and harvests.

How the procession unfolds

At nightfall, the procession sets off from Largo San Nicola and winds through the historic center until it reaches the Cathedral. The men of the village parade, ringing cowbells and carrying ox and goat horns as if they were relics, along with an ironic veiled phallic symbol, while chanting the songs of the Congrega. Behind them, children follow with lanterns, asking for sweets and small offerings from house to house. The festival concludes with the spectacular danza della pupa, a papier-mâché puppet in the shape of a female figure that, covered in fireworks, dances amidst sparks and liberating bangs.

The flavors of tradition

Like every Abruzzese festival, the Processione dei Cornuti has its own signature dishes. The star is the spezzatino alla cornuta, a rich and hearty meat stew that warms up the autumn evening, accompanied by local wines, particularly Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Over the years, the ritual has often been included in the broader event Suoni, profumi e sapori di novembre, featuring food stalls along the village streets, roasted chestnuts, sausages, polenta, spelt soup, live music, and a craft market between Piazza Duomo, the Castle, and the alleys of the historic center.

A village between the Majella and the Orfento Valley

In the municipality of San Valentino in Abruzzo Citeriore, in Abruzzo, the festival is now a draw for the curious and enthusiasts of folk traditions, preserved and revitalized over time thanks to the commitment of the community and the so-called Congrega dei Cornuti. Those who participate discover not only a lighthearted and superstitious ritual, but an entire Majella village that tells its story through its peasant roots.