Madonna delle Milizie Festival

Sicily's most unique festival

The Madonna delle Milizie Festival is one of the most fascinating and original events in all of Sicily. It is celebrated in Scicli, a stunning Baroque town in the province of Ragusa, part of the UNESCO Val di Noto site and famous as a filming location for the Inspector Montalbano series. Every year, on the last Saturday of May, the historic center steps back in time to reenact a legendary episode: the 1091 battle between the Normans of Roger I of Hauteville and the Saracens of Emir Belcane.

What makes this festival unique is the figure of the Madonna on horseback: according to local folklore, the Holy Virgin descended from the sky on a white steed, sword drawn, to aid the people of Scicli besieged by invaders. It is the only event in the world where the Virgin is depicted as a warrior on horseback. The life-sized papier-mâché statue, dating back to the late 18th century, and the 1780 painting by Francesco Pascucci capture this image, which is unprecedented in Sicilian religious iconography.

The sacred pageant in Piazza Italia

The heart of the festival is the sacred pageant held in Piazza Italia, in the center of Scicli. A papier-mâché castle is set up as a backdrop for the battle reenactment: the Saracens land from a ship, also made of papier-mâché, and the conflict is resolved by the triumphant arrival of the statue of the Madonna on horseback. The performance, with roots dating back to the late 15th century, is considered the oldest sacred-profane pageant in Sicily.

A recognized heritage

The festival and the original script by Giuseppe Pacetto Vanasia, dated 1933, were added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list in 2011. As early as 1736, Pope Clement XII had officially recognized the miracle of the Virgin with a papal decree. Maria Santissima delle Milizie is a co-patron saint of Scicli and the object of deep devotion by its inhabitants.

Traditions and flavors

Alongside the reenactment, the festival features a grand medieval procession with flag-wavers, jesters, and falconry displays parading through the streets of the historic center. Not to be missed is the traditional pastry linked to the occasion: the Testa di Turco, made of cream or ricotta-filled choux pastry, whose turban-like shape commemorates the victory over the Saracens. The event attracts hundreds of faithful and visitors to Scicli every year, in the heart of south-eastern Sicily.