Fera 'Mpessima (Mule and Crosses Fair)

An ancient fair in the heart of Grecìa Salentina

The Fera 'Mpessima is one of the most deeply rooted traditions of Sternatia, a small village of just over two thousand residents in the province of Lecce, in the heart of Grecìa Salentina—the Hellenophone area of Salento where people still speak Grico, an ancient language of Greek origin. A centuries-old fair, the 'Mpessima has its roots in an era when village life revolved around agriculture and livestock, and farmers eagerly awaited this event to purchase the working animals needed for their fields.

Two fairs during Lent

The unique feature of the 'Mpessima is that it is divided into two distinct events during the Lenten period, both linked to the liturgical calendar:

• The Mule Fair, held on the second Sunday of Lent: this is the historic livestock fair, once dedicated to the buying and selling of mules and pack animals.
• The Covered Crosses Fair, also known as the Heifer Fair, held on the fifth Sunday of Lent: the name refers to the respect for the Lenten period and the proximity to Passion Sunday, when crosses in churches were traditionally veiled.

According to local tradition, Sternatia once hosted three fairs; one was reportedly traded to the neighboring town of Corigliano d'Otranto in exchange for the papier-mâché statue of Saint George, the town's patron saint.

Why is it called 'Mpessima?

The curious name 'Mpessima (meaning "terrible" or "worst") is said to derive from the adverse weather conditions that consistently accompanied these early spring days: cold, rain, and wind, however, have never stopped the fair, which continues to be held every year regardless of the weather.

What you will find at the fair

Today, the 'Mpessima has lost its original function as a livestock market, but it remains a lively popular event that fills the squares and streets of the historic center. Among the colorful stalls, you will find agricultural tools, small birds and poultry, household items, sweets, and toys. There is no shortage of rides for children and the rediscovery of culinary specialties linked to peasant tradition, such as lu schiattiddhu (salted sardines and scapece served on bread, accompanied by wine). For the town, it is above all a moment of collective gathering: once an opportunity for young couples to take their first struscio (stroll) among the stalls, today it is a community festival that enlivens the Grico village at the beginning of spring.

Sternatia, a land of Grico language and culture

Visiting Sternatia during the Fera 'Mpessima is also an opportunity to discover one of the most fascinating villages in Salento: the Baroque Palazzo Granafei, the Church of Maria SS. Assunta with its 18th-century bell tower, the menhirs, and traces of the millennial Byzantine presence. A cultural heritage that, together with the Grico language, makes this Puglia town a unique place in the regional landscape.