Christmas Markets at Castello dell'Ettore

Christmas inside a Norman castle

The Christmas Markets at Castello dell'Ettore are the Advent event that brings life back to the village of Apice Vecchia, in the municipality of Apice, province of Benevento, in the heart of the Sannio region of Campania. For several weekends, from mid-November until the days leading up to Christmas, the halls, courtyards, and walkways of the fortress overlooking the Calore valley fill with wooden huts, lights, scenery, and music: a journey that combines a market, a show, and a visit to a monument that remains silent for most of the year.

Apice Vecchia, the Pompeii of the 20th Century

It is the setting that makes this market different from all others in the region. Apice Vecchia is a town abandoned after the earthquake that struck the Sannio area: the inhabitants were moved to the new center of Apice, and the old town remained suspended in time, with empty houses and intact streets, earning it the nickname the “Pompeii of the 20th Century.” At the highest point of the hill stands the Castello dell'Ettore, of Norman origin and renovated several times, which over the centuries has served as a town hall, barracks, primary school, and finally a historical museum with an attached library. Visiting it with the Christmas lights on, while the surrounding town remains motionless, is an experience that no postcard can truly capture.

A fairy-tale path for young and old

Each edition chooses a common theme and decorates the castle accordingly: in 2025, the theme was Disney fairy tales, with the fortress transformed into an enchanted kingdom and characters welcoming visitors room by room. The heart of the visit for children is Santa's House, set up in the tower, where elves collect letters and listen to wishes. The area dedicated to the world of Harry Potter, The Magic School of Hogwarts, is also very popular, featuring a reconstructed Great Hall, the Sorting Hat, and photo opportunities in costume (access requires a small supplement).

Lombard re-enactments and shows

The entertainment program is the liveliest part of the day: singers, jugglers, stilt walkers, theater companies, and street artists take turns in the castle spaces and the small squares of the village. The Benevento Longobarda association offers costume re-enactments, including the “Siege of the Castle” show, which recounts the military past of the fortress and the Lombard season of Sannio, a strong identity theme for the entire Benevento area.

Crafts and flavors of Sannio

• Wooden huts with artistic handicrafts, ceramics, Christmas decorations, and handmade gift ideas
• Typical local products: cured meats, cheeses, preserves, festive sweets, and Sannio wines
• Food area with hot and cold dishes, fried foods, grilled items, finger food, drinks, and desserts, with the support of the Pro Loco of Apice
• Restaurants, pubs, and pizzerias in the village open during the market days

Guided tours of the village

Alongside the market, you can book guided tours of Apice Vecchia, an accompanied walk through the abandoned houses, the church, and the alleys of the ghost town: a minimal supplement (2 euros per person, reduced for groups) that is well worth adding, as it is the best way to understand the history of the place rather than just admiring the lights.

When and how to visit

Opening days are concentrated on weekends, with some weekday dates during the December holidays. In the standard hours, you can enter on Saturdays from 3:00 PM to 10:00 PM and on Sundays from 10:30 AM to 10:00 PM, with the last entry to the castle half an hour before closing. Those arriving by car or camper park in Apice Nuova and reach the village via a dedicated shuttle: a necessary choice, as the narrow streets of Apice Vecchia could not handle the traffic of thousands of visitors.

Why it's worth the trip

It is not the largest market in Italy, and it doesn't aim to be: its strength is the setting. In a few hours, you combine a medieval castle, a ghost town, a re-enacted Lombard tradition, and the crafts and cuisine of Sannio. For those visiting inland Campania in winter, it is one of the best opportunities to discover a hinterland that remains in the shadow of the coast during the summer.