U Pagghiaru of Bordonaro

U Pagghiaru, a millennial Epiphany ritual

On the day of the Epiphany, the village of Bordonaro, located in the hilly outskirts of the Municipality of Messina, celebrates one of the oldest and most evocative folk traditions in Sicily: U Pagghiaru. This ritual of identity, blending faith and tradition, is now inscribed in the R.E.I.S. (Sicilian Intangible Heritage Registry) and draws the entire Messina community to this small hamlet.

Origins and significance

The origins of U Pagghiaru date back to the 11th century, when Basilian monks arriving from Armenia introduced the custom of celebrating the Baptism of the Lord with solemn rites around a large hut-shaped tree. The festival fuses elements of agricultural and pastoral culture with the Christian symbolism of the Epiphany: the conical structure evokes both the Nativity manger and ancient cults related to the earth and fertility. It serves as a symbol of prosperity, good wishes, and cultural continuity.

Building the Pagghiaru

The heart of the festival is the large structure set up in the village square. Around a chestnut pole covered in acacia branches, a wheel made of iron rims is attached, decorated with ring-shaped breads, oranges, lemons, and tangerines. At the top sits the 'cuciera', a cone adorned with citrus fruits and cured meats, topped by a cross that the climbers must conquer.

The day's program

The event follows a program organized by the Santa Maria delle Grazie Parish in Bordonaro:

• Morning: Games in the square for children, including the traditional breaking of the 'quartara'
• Afternoon: Performance throughout the village by the 'G. Verdi' Band of Bordonaro, accompanied by bagpipers
• Blessing rites for the water and participants, followed by the assault on U Pagghiaru
• Folk songs, music, and entertainment
• The pantomime of U cavadduzzu e l'omu sabbaggiu, a masked performance symbolizing the struggle between good and evil
• Living nativity scene and entertainment with folk and Christmas songs
• Evening: Conclusion of the festivities with a fireworks display

The assault and the community

The assault is the most anticipated moment: climbers scale the structure to reach the summit and claim the cross. Whoever succeeds is carried in triumph by the cheering crowd. Participation is regulated and requires prior registration at the parish. More than a competition, the assault is a collective gesture that seals the cohesion of a community that finds its identity in this ritual.