The ancient drum ritual once used to ward off wolves, held in Gratteri in the heart of the Madonie mountains
'U Juovi di Mastri, held on the Thursday following the feast of Corpus Domini, is one of the most deeply felt and defining traditions of Gratteri, a village of fewer than a thousand inhabitants perched at an altitude of 657 meters in the heart of the Madonie range, in the province of Palermo. On this day, the streets of the historic center fill with the rhythmic, powerful sound of 'A Tuccata di Lupi, one of the oldest and most evocative folk traditions in Sicily.
The tradition is rooted in a distant past, when a large number of wolves lived in the San Giorgio forest, just outside Gratteri. Driven by hunger, the predators would attack the sheepfolds and slaughter the flocks. To drive them away, hunters used large drums beaten with a relentless rhythm; this sound, capable of disorienting and frightening the animals, was known as a tuccata di lupi. During hunting expeditions, men equipped with large drums would precede the hunters, striking the taut skins with force to flush the beasts from their dens.
The ritual takes place on the final day of the ancient Octave of Corpus Domini. In the past, during this week of celebrations, each day was dedicated to a different category of society: Thursday belonged to the mastri, or master craftsmen, hence the name 'U Juovi di Mastri (The Thursday of the Master Craftsmen). Although the broader tradition of the Octave has faded, the drum ritual was revived in 1999 and is today not merely a folk re-enactment, but a living rite shared by the entire community.
A visit to Gratteri offers much more than just the ritual: nearby, you will find the evocative Abbey of San Giorgio, a rare example of Norman architecture dating back to 1140 and commissioned by Roger II, nestled in ancient oak forests, as well as the legendary Grotta Grattara. Located within the Madonie Park, the village is an ideal stop for those wanting to discover inland Sicily, characterized by authentic traditions and mountain landscapes. Here, the beating of the drums becomes the very voice of the community, a symbol of belonging and continuity between past and present.
On Thursday, June 11, 2026, Gratteri renewed the ancient rite of 'U Juovi di Mastri on the day concluding the Corpus Domini Octave. The streets of the historic center came alive with the rhythmic sound of 'A Tuccata di Lupi, as drummers paraded through the village from dawn to dusk.
The day combined the spiritual dimension of Corpus Domini with the historical and anthropological memory of the Madonie region: a living, participatory ritual rather than a simple performance, where the beating of the drums became the voice of the community and a symbol of continuity between generations.
A dozen drummers, guardians of the tradition, accompany the entire day with the relentless rhythm that gives the ritual its name.
Gratteri is located in the Madonie Park, in the province of Palermo, at an altitude of approximately 657 meters. By car, it can be reached via the A20 Palermo-Messina motorway (Lascari/Cefalù exit), continuing along the inland roads that climb toward the Madonie. The nearest train station is Cefalù, from which you can continue by car or local connections.
The ritual takes place on the Thursday following the feast of Corpus Domini, from dawn (around 6:00 AM) until evening.
The event takes place for free throughout the streets of the historic center and is open to everyone.
Wear comfortable shoes to navigate the sloping streets of the village and take advantage of the day to visit the Abbey of San Giorgio and enjoy the panoramic views of the Madonie.
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Centro storico di Gratteri