Purgatory Bean Festival (At the Table of the Hooded Brothers)

The bean that comes from Purgatory

In the heart of the Viterbo Tuscia, the town of Gradoli — a small village in Lazio overlooking the northwestern shore of Lake Bolsena — dedicates several summer evenings to a product with an unusual name: the Purgatory bean. This is an ancient variety with a tiny white seed, an incredibly thin skin, and a delicate flavor. It grows in the volcanic soils surrounding the lake and requires no prolonged soaking before cooking. It is one of the signature legumes of Upper Lazio and has long been recognized as a traditional regional agri-food product.

A tradition born in the 16th century

The bean's name is no mere marketing gimmick: it derives from the Purgatory Lunch, a ritual celebrated in Gradoli for over four centuries on Ash Wednesday. The Purgatory Brotherhood, a confraternity founded to pray for the souls in Purgatory and, above all, to perform acts of charity, prepares and serves a meatless meal to the community: rice soup with tench sauce, stewed pike, fried hake, boiled salt cod seasoned with local extra virgin olive oil, garlic, and parsley, and, of course, Purgatory beans. It is an event that attracts over a thousand people every year and has made Gradoli famous far beyond the provincial borders.

At the Table of the Hooded Brothers

During the week of the San Magno patronal feast in August, the Brotherhood reopens its dining hall for the summer version of the tradition: the Purgatory Bean Festival, also known as Alla Mensa degli Incappucciati. The 'Incappucciati' (Hooded Brothers) are the members of the confraternity, recognizable by their brown robes and long purple hoods worn during religious processions. On festival nights, however, the tone shifts: the dining hall becomes a large, popular refectory with long communal tables, table service, and live music until late.

What to eat

The menu revolves around the rustic cuisine of the upper Viterbo area, with the bean as the star ingredient:

• Purgatory bean soup, the event's signature dish
• Purgatory beans with olive oil, served as a side or appetizer
• Wild boar pappardelle, a classic of the Tuscia tradition
• Grilled sausages and lamb
• Roasted lake fish, from nearby Lake Bolsena
• Local wines, primarily the Aleatico di Gradoli DOC, a sweet and aromatic wine that holds its historical designation here

Music and atmosphere

Every evening, dinner is accompanied by a live band playing ballroom dance music, Italian covers, and folk songs: an authentic village festival atmosphere, frequented mainly by local families and lake vacationers. Entry to the area is free, and you pay for what you consume at the counter, with affordable village-festival prices.

The charitable spirit of the festival

A feature that distinguishes this festival from many others: the entire proceeds, combined with the completely voluntary work of the brothers, are donated to charity and to help those in need. Eating at the 'Mensa degli Incappucciati' therefore means participating in a community gesture even before it is a gastronomic event.

Why visit Gradoli

The festival is also a great opportunity to discover one of the least touristy and most authentic villages in the Lazio region. Gradoli preserves a medieval tuff stone historic center, the Palazzo Farnese designed by Antonio da Sangallo the Younger (now home to the Farnese Costume Museum), and one of the most beautiful views over Lake Bolsena. A few kilometers away, you can reach the lake beaches, Bisentina Island, and the villages of Capodimonte, Marta, and Bolsena.