Palio della Tonna (Tonna of Civita)

The Palio della Tonna, the soul of Civita

In the heart of Civita di Bagnoregio, the most famous hamlet of the Bagnoregio municipality in the province of Viterbo, one of the most characteristic traditions of the Lazio region takes place twice a year: the Palio della Tonna. This donkey race brings Piazza San Donato to life, right in front of the church, in the beating heart of the so-called "Dying City." It is an authentic, competitive, and lighthearted festival where the absolute star is the stubbornness of the donkeys, capable of overturning any prediction.

Why it is called "Tonna"

The name comes from the shape of Piazza San Donato, which the local dialect calls tonna, meaning "round." The rules require jockeys to complete three circular laps of the square, followed by a series of elimination heats to select the best riders for the final challenge. It is not just the jockey's skill that counts: often, the unpredictable mood of the donkey decides the outcome of the race, with sudden stops and swerves that bring smiles to the crowd.

A tradition tied to the village's history

The race is rooted in the deep relationship between the community and the donkey, which for centuries was the only reliable way to climb the steep, unpaved paths leading to the village perched on the tuff. Isolated on a spur eroded by badlands and connected to the rest of the world by a long pedestrian bridge, Civita relied on these animals to transport people and goods. The Palio pays homage to that ancient bond, passed down from generation to generation.

The districts and the banner

Jockeys representing the village districts participate in the race, competing for the Palio itself: a banner painted each year by a local artist depicting the patron saint being celebrated. Victory is a source of pride for the entire district, in a day that combines the competitive spirit of the race with the conviviality of a village festival.

Two events per year

The Palio is traditionally held on two occasions: the first Sunday of June, coinciding with the festivities of the Madonna Liberatrice, and the second Sunday of September, in honor of the Most Holy Crucifix. The race takes place in the afternoon and attracts visitors and onlookers every year, drawn by both the spectacle and the scenic beauty of one of Italy's most evocative villages.

An experience to live

Attending the Palio della Tonna means immersing yourself in the atmosphere of a community that keeps its roots alive. It is advisable to arrive in Civita early, cross the pedestrian bridge leading to the village, and find a spot in Piazza San Donato before the heats begin: the anticipation, among the medieval alleys and lanes overlooking the badlands, is already part of the festival.