"Il Mastro di Campo" Carnival

A pantomime that brings the 15th century to life

The Mastro di Campo is the most anticipated event of the Carnival in Mezzojuso, a village in the hinterland of the Province of Palermo, Sicily. For one day, the entire town transforms into an open-air theater: Piazza Umberto I becomes the besieged castle, while hundreds of performers in period costumes bring to life a re-enactment passed down for over two centuries. It is recognized as the largest folk pantomime in Sicily and is inscribed in the Intangible Heritage Register of the Sicilian Region.

The history: storming the castle for love

The performance is rooted in a real event that took place on the night of January 12, 1412, when Bernardo Cabrera, Count of Modica, broke into the Steri Palace in Palermo to force the vicereine Bianca of Navarre to accept his marriage proposal, only to be captured despite his accompanying army. Over the centuries, a choral and romantic narrative has been grafted onto this historical fabric: the Mastro di Campo fights for the Queen's heart, competing against the King who usurped her.

The characters and structure

The protagonist wears a red wax mask with a hooked nose, a white shirt adorned with ribbons, and a red cloak. A large court revolves around him:

• The King and Queen with dignitaries and ladies;
• Garibaldi and the Garibaldini, the Engineers, the Baron and the Baroness;
• Moors, Magicians, the Gardener, the Shepherd, and other popular figures.

The pantomime unfolds in several acts: the Mastro di Campo's arrival on horseback and his challenge to the King, a war dance set to the rhythm of drums, and the duel in which the general is wounded and carried away as if dead. After an interval, marked by the discovery of the "trovatura" (treasure/discovery) and the court's mourning, the Mastro di Campo returns healed, captures the King, and finally embraces the Queen. The entire performance is punctuated by cannon fire, showers of confetti, and symbolic battles.

Atmosphere and tradition

The Mastro di Campo is a great community celebration that attracts thousands of visitors from all over Sicily. The event has been organized for over twenty years by the Pro Loco of Mezzojuso, which manages the costumes, choreography, and the massive cast of performers. Alongside the main show, the "Mastro di Campo for children" often takes place—a version entirely performed by the town's children, ensuring the generational continuity of a tradition that is vital to the identity of the Municipality of Mezzojuso.