Giostra delle Contrade

A Renaissance festival in the heart of the Treja Valley

The Giostra delle Contrade is the most iconic event in Mazzano Romano, a small town in the Metropolitan City of Rome Capital, in northern Lazio, overlooking the gorges of the Valle del Treja Regional Park. For three days in September, the historic center — with its tuff alleys, arches, stairways, and small squares — transforms into an open-air stage where time turns back to the 16th century.

The village is located just over half an hour from the capital, yet the atmosphere is that of a remote inland town: no massive stages or large sound systems, but torches, drums, ancient craft workshops, and locals wearing hand-stitched costumes. This intimate, community-driven dimension makes the Giostra one of the most authentic re-enactments in the area north of Rome.

1526 and the Counts of Anguillara

The re-enactment has a precise historical anchor: the purchase of the Mazzano fiefdom by Giovanni Battista degli Anguillara, who bought the castle from the monastery of San Gregorio al Celio in Rome in 1526. This episode forms the narrative thread of the festival, staging the arrival of the Count and his entourage in the village, the homage of the districts, and the birth of a new lordship.

Around this core, a theatrical machine has been built over the years, involving dozens of participants: ladies, men-at-arms, flag-wavers, musicians, drummers, and fire-eaters. The costumes, meticulously detailed, follow the Renaissance iconography of Lazio and are renewed with each edition.

The four districts

The town is divided into four districts that vie for the title:

• Barbacane
• Borgo de Fora
• Li Santi
• Montarello

Each district has its own banner, colors, and group of participants. The rivalry is sporting and joyful: they compete in the organization of the parade, in traditional games, and above all in the Archers' Palio, the archery competition that traditionally decides much of the final ranking.

How the days unfold

The weekend structure repeats with few variations. On Friday, the village lights up at sunset with the inaugural parade accompanying Count Anguillara and his entourage; in Piazza dell'Antisà, the blessing of the banners of the four districts takes place, officially kicking off the festivities, followed by drum performances, men-at-arms, fire jugglers, and a dinner under the stars with Renaissance music.

Saturday is the busiest day: in the afternoon, the grand historical parade winds through the village streets, with each district engaged in a Renaissance-themed performance, complete with sets and allegories. In the evening, the Banquets of the Four Banners is held, a dinner open to everyone in the heart of the village, accompanied by fire dances, juggling, and demonstrations of ancient crafts.

Sunday is dedicated to competition: in the morning, traditional games between the districts with skill tests inspired by the past; in the afternoon, the Archers' Palio; and in the evening, the proclamation of the overall winning district.

Eating and drinking at the Giostra

The district taverns are an integral part of the festival. You dine outdoors at long tables set along the alleys, with traditional dishes from the Roman countryside and the Faliscan area: soups, grilled meats, local cheeses, simple desserts, and local wines. Due to organizational reasons, the main dinners are by reservation only: it is advisable to call a few days in advance, as spots fill up quickly.

Why it's worth the trip

Mazzano Romano is one of the most photogenic villages in Lazio: the historic center, partially restored after the depopulation of the 20th century, overlooks the gorge of the Treja river, amidst woods, waterfalls, and trails. Visiting the town during the Giostra means seeing the village in its most vibrant version, with decorated windows, the warm glow of torches, and the entire community involved. For those arriving from Rome, it is a perfect day trip that combines nature, history, and popular cuisine.