The August Carnival of the Alto Oltrepò, among the most evocative traditions of Lombardy
In Cegni, a small hamlet of Santa Margherita di Staffora, in the province of Pavia and in the heart of the Alto Oltrepò, something unusual happens: Carnival is celebrated twice a year. One in winter, on Shrove Saturday, and one in summer, on August 16th, when the famous Carnevale Bianco takes place. A double celebration that makes Cegni one of the most unique places in Lombard folklore.
The decision to have two Carnivals was made in the 1970s. The depopulation of mountain villages, accelerated by the economic boom, made it difficult for many emigrants to return home in February for the winter festival. It was therefore decided to hold a second one in mid-summer, when the village becomes populated again. It is called "Bianco" because, by the will of the parish priest at the time, masks that covered the face were forbidden: the protagonists thus perform with their faces uncovered.
The heart of the festival is the comical representation of the wedding between two symbolic characters: 'il Brutto', who flaunts exaggerated wealth with flashy clothes and colorful ribbons, and 'la Povera Donna', dressed humbly with an apron and shawl and traditionally played by a man. It is a funny parody rich in meaning, accompanied by the typical dances and songs of the Quattro Province (the border area between Pavia, Alessandria, Genoa, and Piacenza), with the sound of the piffero (bagpipe) and accordion.
The Carnevale Bianco di Cegni attracts about a thousand visitors each year, drawn by one of the most authentic celebrations in the Lombard Apennines. For those exploring the Oltrepò Pavese in summer, climbing to this mountain village to witness the festival is an experience that tells, better than a thousand words, the culture of the Quattro Province.
For 2026, the Carnevale Bianco di Cegni is scheduled for August 16th, as per tradition. In the hamlet of Santa Margherita di Staffora, the comical representation of the wedding between 'il Brutto' and 'la Povera Donna' will take place, with masked parades with uncovered faces through the village streets, accompanied by musical groups and traditional dances of the Quattro Province.
The detailed program and times will be communicated in the weeks preceding the event by the local organization.
The detailed program and times for the 2026 edition will be communicated in the preceding weeks. The traditional structure of the day includes:
The representation of the wedding between 'il Brutto' and 'la Povera Donna' and the dances of the Quattro Province.
Cegni is a hamlet of Santa Margherita di Staffora, in the Alta Val Staffora of the Oltrepò Pavese. It can be reached by car by driving up the valley from Varzi; the mountain roads require attention.
The Carnevale Bianco is held every year on August 16th. A second edition, the Carnevale d'Inverno (Winter Carnival), takes place on Shrove Saturday in February.
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Frazione di Cegni
Cegni, 27050 Santa Margherita di Staffora