Palla Eh! - Torniella Tournament

An ancient game that thrives in the Maremma villages

Palla Eh!, also known as palla a 21, is one of the oldest and most fascinating traditional sports in Tuscany. It is a bare-handed game whose origins, passed down through generations, appear to date back to games played by the ancient Romans, which were in turn adapted from the Greeks. Unlike many traditions now relegated to history books, Palla Eh! is still actively played: it takes place on streets and in squares, without dedicated facilities, exactly as it did centuries ago.

The Torniella Tournament is one of the most anticipated stages of the season. It takes place every August in Torniella, a hamlet of the Municipality of Roccastrada, in the province of Grosseto, nestled in the woods of the Maremma's Colline Metallifere. For two days, the village transforms into a large open-air playing field, where the bounce of the ball and the shouts of the players set the rhythm of the festival.

The rules, in brief

The game is played between teams of up to five players. The ball—a small projectile weighing just 35-40 grams, with a lead core wrapped in rubber and wool—can be struck only with the palm of the hand (excluding the wrist) and must be returned before the second bounce. The scoring follows the logic of tennis: 15, 30, 40, advantage, and game. Hence the popular name "palla a 21," linked to the traditional counting system.

The competing villages

Palla Eh! survives in a small pocket of territory straddling the provinces of Grosseto and Siena. The season features teams from the villages that safeguard the tradition:

• Torniella and Piloni (Roccastrada)
• Vetulonia and Tirli (Castiglione della Pescaia)
• Ciciano (Chiusdino) and Scalvaia (Monticiano)

The Torniella teams (historically fielding A and B squads) are among the most successful in the circuit, with several seasonal victories in recent years.

A recognized heritage

In December 2022, traditional ball games—including the bracciale, the pantalera, and Palla Eh! itself—were added to the UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list, a recognition that rewards the tenacity of the Maremma communities in keeping this practice alive. Attending a tournament in Torniella means connecting with an authentic piece of Tuscan folk culture, far from mass tourism circuits.

Why it is worth a visit

The Torniella Tournament is more than just a sporting competition: it is a village festival where sport, local pride, and conviviality mingle. Between matches, it is easy to get swept up in the village atmosphere, filled with long tables, Maremma flavors, and a community proud of its roots. It is an opportunity to discover the hinterland of Roccastrada and a different side of Tuscany, built on genuine traditions.