Nepi returns to the Renaissance: three weekends of challenges between the four districts in the city of Lucrezia Borgia
The Palio dei Borgia is the great identity-defining festival of Nepi, a municipality in the province of Viterbo, in the heart of the Tuscia region and the Lazio Region. Every year in June, the tuff-stone village overlooking the gorges transforms into a Renaissance stage: flags at the windows, torch-lit workshops, period costumes, and the roll of drums accompanying processions along the streets of the historic center.
The event, established in 1995, commemorates the historical bond between Nepi and the Borgia family: in 1499, Pope Alexander VI granted the Duchy of Nepi to his daughter Lucrezia Borgia, who resided there and served as its lady. It is from that page of history that the imagery of the entire festival is born, from the costumes and ceremonies to the evocative Rocca dei Borgia, a fortress that still hosts performances and theatrical tours today.
The competitive heart of the Palio is the challenge between the four town districts, which spend weeks preparing sets, processions, and athletes:
Each district fields its own knights, archers, ladies, flag-wavers, and musicians, and manages its own tavern. At the end of the event, the winning district receives the Drappo (banner), painted each year by a different artist: in 2025, the palio went to La Rocca, with the work signed by Rita Sargenti.
From Friday to Sunday, throughout the duration of the event, the district taverns open their doors with traditional dishes from Nepi and the Tuscia region. Alongside the challenges, there is a full cultural program: historical conferences on the Borgias and the Renaissance, exhibitions, theatrical visits to the Rocca, fire shows in the squares, and concerts.
In 2026, for the thirtieth anniversary, the program was enriched with two new features: the theater festival «Sipari di Lucrezia», five performances hosted at the Rocca dei Borgia, and «Harmonica», a national festival of historical drums that brought percussion groups from all over Italy to Nepi.
More than just a costumed re-enactment, the Palio dei Borgia is a collective ritual that involves the entire Nepi community for months. Visitors will find an authentic, non-touristy village with the Rocca, the Cathedral, the aqueduct, and the gorges providing a natural backdrop—plus the opportunity to combine the visit with other jewels of the Tuscia, from Civita Castellana to Sutri, and even Lake Bracciano slightly further south.
The 2026 edition, the thirtieth, was the richest ever. The commemorative banner was created by Romano Ciarlimbruschi, the same artist who signed the first palio in 1995: a tribute desired by the Ente Palio dei Borgia, led by rector Simona Benedetti, to ideally close the circle of thirty years.
The celebrations started on May 30 with the propitiatory dinner at the L'Acquedotto Cultural Center, before getting into full swing on June 5, with the blessing of the banner and the official opening. The taverns of the four districts welcomed the public from Friday to Sunday during all three weekends: June 5-7, 12-14, and 19-21.
The historical procession with the offering of candles and the handing over of the city keys opened the calendar on June 6; the archers' tournament was held on June 14, while the Knights' Joust, the decisive test of the Palio, took place on June 20. The closing ceremony, with the final procession and the delivery of the banner to the winning district, was held on Sunday, June 21.
The «Sipari di Lucrezia» festival brought five theatrical performances of different genres to the spaces of the Rocca dei Borgia (ticket 10 euros, reduced 5 euros). «Harmonica — National Festival of Historical Drums» brought together groups of drummers and clarion players from all over Italy in Nepi, with performances and processions in the historic center.
Theater performances of the «Sipari di Lucrezia» festival distributed over the three weeks at the Rocca dei Borgia. Taverns open from Friday to Sunday during all three weekends.
Nepi is located about 45 km from Rome and 30 km from Viterbo. By car: via Cassia bis (SS2 bis) exit Nepi-Castel Sant'Elia, or the Orte-Viterbo expressway. By train: Civita Castellana station on the Rome-Viterbo railway, then bus connection. Cotral bus from Rome Saxa Rubra.
Historical processions, jousts, and traditional games have free admission. Performances of the «Sipari di Lucrezia» theater festival are ticketed (10 euros full price, 5 euros reduced). The district taverns offer affordable prices.
The historic center is pedestrianized during events: it is best to leave the car in the outer parking lots and continue on foot. Wear comfortable shoes for the cobblestones. For the Knights' Joust and the Historical Procession, it is best to arrive well in advance to find a spot.
Ente Palio dei Borgia, Piazza del Duomo 2, 01036 Nepi (VT) — [email protected] — www.paliodeiborgianepi.it
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Centro storico di Nepi e Rocca dei Borgia
Piazza del Duomo 2, 01036 Nepi