Ghemme Carnival - Chèrnuvée dè Ghèm (King Barlan)

The Ghemme Carnival and the mask of King Barlan

In the heart of Upper Piedmont, amidst the vineyards of Ghemme DOCG, the village of Ghemme, in the province of Novara, preserves one of the most distinctive traditional carnivals in the region. Known in the local dialect as Chèrnuvée dè Ghèm, the event revolves around the figure of King Barlan, the town's historic mask, accompanied by his consort Madama Pèngin.

The origins: from the commoners to the King of Patagonia

The name Barlan, in the Ghemme dialect, refers to a person who appears simple and naive, yet is clever enough to get away with things and always come out on top: he is the embodiment of the commoner's revenge, a figure who has inhabited local popular imagination since the 17th century. Towards the end of the 19th century, Barlan even became a King, specifically the King of Patagonia, likely following a geographical lecture by Salesian missionaries from Novara who, while recounting tales of those distant lands, captured the imagination of the people of Ghemme.

The satirical speech in dialect

The most anticipated moment of the festival is the speech by King Barlan, delivered strictly in the Ghemme dialect in Piazza Castello. With a burlesque and biting tone, the sovereign reviews the year's events and scolds administrators, politicians, and fellow citizens alike, addressing the town's hottest topics without mincing words: from promised public works to traffic, and from local associations to community affairs. It is popular satire in its most authentic form, where everything can be said, yet the community remains united in the end.

The Fesulaa, the gastronomic heart of the festival

• The bean feast: immediately after the speech, the traditional Fesulaa—a bean stew prepared by the Maestri Ranceri—is distributed in the square, a convivial moment that brings the whole town together.
• School visits: in the days leading up to the event, King Barlan and Madama Pèngin visit local schools, involving children in the tradition.
• Masks and children: entertainment, parades, and festive moments dedicated to families complete the program.

A tradition that renews itself

Organized by the Chèrnuvée dè Ghèm Committee, the event is now an unmissable fixture on the carnival calendar of the Novara area. In recent years, the role of King Barlan has been played with great success by Massimo Quercioli, while the character of Madama Pèngin is entrusted to different members of the community each time. Experiencing the Ghemme Carnival means discovering the most genuine soul of a Piedmontese town that, between a glass of local wine and a steaming plate of beans, still knows how to celebrate its own identity with irony.