The Carnival of the paniccia in the heart of the upper Valsesia
In Campertogno, a small town in the Valsesia valley in the Province of Vercelli, Carnival is one of the most cherished events of the year. In this mountain village surrounded by the peaks of Monte Rosa, the celebration isn't about floats or grand parades, but rather a gastronomic and communal tradition that renews itself every winter: the paniccia, the beating heart of all Carnivals in the upper valley.
The paniccia is the Valsesian version of Carnival soup: a thick rice stew prepared with carrots, celery, onions, cabbage, leeks, beans, bacon, meat, tomato, and potatoes. According to tradition, passed down orally for over 150 years, it was once distributed to the poor and prisoners as a substantial meal during the holidays. Even today, it is cooked outdoors in the town square inside large copper pots called caudere in the local dialect, fueled by wood donated by the residents themselves. On Sunday morning, the paniccia is blessed by the parish priest and distributed to the entire village: a gesture of sharing that gives meaning to the entire event.
The Campertogno Carnival spans several days, from the dance party on Friday night to the grand distribution on Sunday. The Teatro Fra' Dolcino multipurpose center is the hub of the evening festivities, hosting the dance with the valley's traditional masks, children's games, and the highly anticipated prize draw. The Piazza degli Alpini serves as the setting for the preparations, the cooking of the boiled meat, and the lighting of the cauldrons at dawn on Sunday, while the Osteria del Teatro is the venue for community dinners, from the risotto night to the closing feast.
Organized by the Campertogno Carnival Committee, the event is much more than a masquerade: it is a time when an entire mountain village gathers around steaming cauldrons, amidst the scent of woodsmoke, songs, and ancient customs. Along with the Carnivals of nearby Alagna, Rassa, Boccioleto, and Mollia, Campertogno preserves one of the most authentic rites of the Piedmontese winter, where solidarity and conviviality matter more than spectacle.
Il Carnevale di Campertogno 2026 ha confermato il rito di sempre, con la 79ª distribuzione della paniccia. La festa è iniziata venerdì 13 febbraio con la veglia danzante e si è conclusa con la tradizionale cena di chiusura Carlavee.
Campertogno is located in upper Valsesia, along the road that climbs the valley towards Alagna Valsesia. By car, it can be reached from the A26 motorway, taking the Romagnano Sesia-Ghemme exit and continuing along the SP299 Valsesia road. The reference railway station is Varallo, from which bus services continue towards the upper valley.
Events mainly take place at the Teatro Fra' Dolcino multipurpose center and in Piazza degli Alpini. The distribution of the paniccia takes place on Sunday morning: it is advisable to arrive early. As this is an alpine village in the middle of winter, warm clothing is recommended. For updated program information, you can contact the organizers at [email protected].
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Centro Polifunzionale Teatro Fra' Dolcino