The historic re-enactment of Empoli on the eve of Corpus Domini
The Volo del Ciuco is the most iconic historical re-enactment in Empoli, in the province of Florence, and one of the most unique popular events in all of Tuscany. Every year, on the eve of Corpus Domini, the historic center of Empoli fills with performers, music, and color to bring to life a ritual that combines history, legend, and a healthy dose of Tuscan irony.
The highlight is the donkey's flight: a papier-mâché donkey is lowered from the bell tower of the Collegiate Church of Sant'Andrea to the square below, under the gaze of thousands of spectators gathered in Piazza Farinata degli Uberti, the city's monumental living room.
The festival's origins date back to the 14th century: according to the heroic poem by Ippolito Neri, its official establishment dates to around 1397, although some sources trace the celebrations back to 1340. Tradition tells that after a clash between Empoli and the castle of San Miniato al Tedesco, the defeated feudal lord was invited to Empoli "where he would see the people of Empoli make even a donkey fly in the city sky." The people of Empoli, using a stratagem involving goats and sheep illuminated by candles, deceived the enemy, who surrendered without a fight.
Originally, on the day of Corpus Domini, a real donkey was lowered from the bell tower via a pulley to the loggia of the Palazzo Ghibellino: the way it "flew" was even used to predict the success of the harvest. The festival was banned in 1861, after the Unification of Italy, due to its cruelty to the animal and the message of rivalry with San Miniato. It was revived in 1981 as a re-enactment, using a fake donkey, and has since returned to being one of the community's most cherished events.
The day begins in the afternoon with roving entertainment through the city center: performances by flag-wavers and musicians, jugglers, acrobats, and moments dedicated to medieval tradition. In the evening, the grand historical pageant kicks off, featuring hundreds of costumed figures, drummers, archers, and representatives of the ancient districts and municipalities of the Empolese Valdelsa, leading up to the final flight of the donkey.
In recent years, the event has taken on a new symbolic value: the historic rivalry with San Miniato has been reinterpreted as a message of peace and friendship between the local communities, in a dialogue that involves the entire district.
Organized by the Compagnia di Sant'Andrea - Volo del Ciuco with the support of the Municipality of Empoli and numerous local associations, the event attracts thousands of residents and visitors every year. It is the perfect opportunity to discover Empoli's historic center, its monumental square, and the traditions of an authentic corner of Tuscany often off the beaten tourist path.
The 545th edition of the Volo del Ciuco was held on Saturday, June 6, 2026, in Piazza Farinata degli Uberti in Empoli, on the eve of Corpus Domini, in front of about two thousand people in the square and thousands more throughout the historic center.
The big news of the year was the papier-mâché wings applied for the first time to the donkey, created by students from the Virgilio Art High School of Empoli and inspired by those preserved in the Collegiate Church. The message of peace and friendship between the municipalities of the Empolese Valdelsa was also confirmed, symbolically sealed during the pageant. As per tradition, the donkey's name was revealed only at the moment of the flight.
2026 News: the papier-mâché wings created by students of the Virgilio Art High School and the ironic "ruzza" by artist Rigo Nelli dedicated to the eleven municipalities of the Empolese Valdelsa.
Empoli is located along the Florence-Pisa railway line: the Empoli station is just a few minutes' walk from the historic center. By car, take the Empoli exit from the FI-PI-LI highway. During the event, the center is subject to traffic closures and road changes: it is advisable to use the perimeter parking lots and walk to Piazza Farinata degli Uberti.
The event takes place in the square and is free and open to all. It is recommended to arrive early to secure a spot in the square before the evening pageant and the donkey's flight.
The event is traditionally held on the eve of Corpus Domini, usually a Saturday in June.
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Piazza Farinata degli Uberti
Piazza Farinata degli Uberti, 50053 Empoli