The historic Valsesia carnival featuring Marcantonio, la Cecca, and the Paniccia
The Varallo Carnival, also known by its local dialect name Carnevalàa 'nt la Stràa, is one of the most deeply rooted and beloved traditions of the Municipality of Varallo, in the province of Vercelli, in the heart of the Piedmontese Valsesia. Considered the oldest carnival in the valley, it has its roots in celebrations that have been repeated for centuries and which, from one edition to the next, have managed to renew themselves while keeping their popular and charitable spirit intact.
The absolute stars of the festival are the official masks: Marcantonio Carlavèe and his consort la Cecca. The royal couple symbolically governs the city for the entire duration of the carnival, from January 6th until Shrove Tuesday, presiding over dances, dinners, and parades. The first Marcantonio appeared in 1905, while for over fifty years la Cecca was played by a man in disguise; today, her identity remains a secret until the evening of the Gran Ball d'la Cecca, when the face of the carnival queen is finally revealed to the citizens.
The most heartfelt and identity-defining moment is the Paniccia: a hearty rice and vegetable soup that, according to ancient tradition, was distributed to the needy and prisoners. Still today, the masks and citizens collect the wood necessary to cook the Paniccia in large pots before the public distribution in Piazza San Carlo. Linked to this charitable vocation is the Giubiaccia, a song in the local dialect born in the 1860s to raise funds for those affected by serious disasters, such as the terrible fire in Quarona of 1865-66.
The calendar opens with the Veggia Pasquetta, an ancient tradition that marks the start of the festivities at Epiphany, and continues with a packed program of events: the handing over of the city keys to the royal couple, the Palio Valsesiano with its challenge between districts and allegorical floats, the great Carnevalàa 'nt la stràa parade through the streets of the center, dance evenings, and the food stalls of the local district carnivals.
The carnival concludes with the most spectacular rite: the Trial of Marcantonio, a theatrical performance full of irony and allegorical meaning in which the mask is judged for his misdeeds and sentenced. The festival ends with an evening torchlight procession and the burning of the effigy of Marcantonio, which marks the end of the carnival and the beginning of Lent. Due to its authenticity and its strong bond with the identity of the Valsesian community, the Varallo Carnival represents one of the most characteristic traditional events in Piedmont.
Official masks: Marcantonio Carlavèe (Simone Berardi) and la Cecca (Marta Farinone). Event in Varallo, in the province of Vercelli.
Varallo can be reached by car from the A26 motorway (Romagnano Sesia-Ghemme exit), continuing along the SS299 of Valsesia. By train, it is served by the Varallo Sesia station, the terminus of the line from Novara. The events take place in the historic center and in the main city squares (Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, Piazza San Carlo).
Most of the events in the square are free of charge. For dances, dinners, and initiatives requiring reservations (such as the Paniccia), it is advisable to consult the Varallo Carnival Committee. As this is a winter mountain event, warm clothing is recommended.
From January 6th (Veggia Pasquetta) to Shrove Tuesday, with the highlight in the final weeks before Lent.
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Centro storico di Varallo