Polenta Rencocciata Festival

A winter festival in the heart of the Lucretili Mountains

The Polenta Rencocciata Festival is the most anticipated winter event in Licenza, a charming village in the Metropolitan City of Rome, Lazio, located about fifty kilometers from the capital. The town sits within the Lucretili Mountains Regional Natural Park, in the Aniene Valley, a land of forests, pastures, and rustic cuisine for centuries. Every year, towards the end of February, the local Pro Loco brings to the square a recipe that is more than just a dish—it is a piece of collective memory.

What is "rencocciata"?

The dialect name describes the process itself. The polenta is cooked until very thick, stirred for a long time with a traditional wooden stick called squagliarellu, and then left to cool. The next day, once firm and cold, it is sliced and placed on a charcoal grill: the outside forms a crispy, golden crust, while the inside remains soft. The result is eaten like bread, which was its original purpose in peasant homes where nothing was wasted and leftover polenta was transformed into a new meal.

The classic pairing at the festival is wild boar stew, a constant presence in the Lucretili woods, but the rencocciata is just as naturally served with pork ribs, grilled sausages, legumes, and seasonal vegetables. It is hearty, rustic food, perfect for a February day in the mountains.

How the festival works

During the two-day festival, the historic center comes alive with food stalls set up by Pro Loco volunteers in the main square and along the village alleys. The preparation of the polenta is a spectacle in itself: you can watch it being cooked in large cauldrons and then grilled, with the smoke and aromas defining the day's atmosphere.

• Tastings of polenta rencocciata with wild boar and other traditional dishes
• Live music and folk dancing in the village squares
• Games and entertainment for children on both days
• Local wines and typical products from the Aniene Valley

A village worth visiting

The festival is also an opportunity to discover a town with a rich history. Licenza preserves its medieval layout, including the ruins of the Orsini Castle, which now houses the Horatian Museum, dedicated to the Latin poet Horace. Nearby, you can find the remains of the Villa of Horace, the country residence gifted to the poet by Maecenas, which he celebrated in his works, along with the Orsini Nymphaeum and Renaissance gardens. Few places in Lazio manage to combine Roman archaeology, medieval architecture, and rustic cuisine within a single walk.

Why it's worth it

In a Lazio calendar crowded with summer festivals, the Rencocciata holds a unique position: it takes place in the dead of winter, makes no claims to be spectacular, and remains a celebration created by the locals for their own town, with popular prices and the genuine hospitality that comes with it. Those arriving from Rome will find, in just over an hour's drive, a village of a few hundred inhabitants that transforms into a large communal table for two days, surrounded by mountains and the scent of polenta on the grill.