Carnevalone Liberato

A carnival that begins when others end

The Carnevalone Liberato in Poggio Mirteto, located in the heart of the Sabina area in the province of Rieti (Lazio), is perhaps the most unusual festival in the Italian calendar: it is celebrated when the Carnival season has already ended, specifically on the first Sunday of Lent, just when Catholic tradition dictates fasting and abstinence. This is the origin of its nickname, the anti-carnival, and its famously anticlerical nature, which has made it a case study in the popular anthropology of central Italy.

The history: February 24, 1861

The festival is rooted in a specific historical event. On February 24, 1861, the inhabitants of Poggio Mirteto rose up against Papal rule and requested annexation to the Kingdom of Italy. According to local tradition, when the Marquis Gioacchino Napoleone Pepoli offered the community a reward—the construction of a railway—the locals preferred to secure the right to celebrate their liberation every year. Thus, a tradition was born, which was suppressed by the Fascist regime after the 1929 Lateran Pacts and brought back to life in 1977, continuing uninterrupted ever since.

The Bammoccio and the Pantasima

Two papier-mâché figures dominate the day. The Bammoccio is a satirical puppet depicting the politician or powerful figure of the moment: it enters the square at noon accompanied by a band and is displayed throughout the day alongside satirical posters and placards. The Pantasima, a tall structure carried on shoulders, accompanies it in the procession. At dusk, both figures are set ablaze in a bonfire that closes the festival—a liberating and spectacular gesture that draws thousands of people to the square.

Masks, music, and the square

The iconic mask is the red devil with a trident, worn by hundreds of participants of all ages. From late morning, the historic center fills with buskers, brass bands, street performers, and live concerts on the stage in Piazza Martiri della Libertà, with a program that favors singer-songwriters, folk, and popular music. There are also shows and workshops dedicated to children, making the day suitable for families.

The inverted Lenten table

The menu is an integral part of the provocation: while Lent traditionally prescribed lean meals and abstinence, in Poggio Mirteto people eat meat and drink red wine in abundance. The food stalls set up along the village streets offer porchetta, arrosticini, sausages, local Sabina cheeses, and the essential extra virgin olive oil, a hallmark product of the territory. The proceeds from the stalls support the organization of the festival, managed by a committee of volunteers in collaboration with the Municipality of Poggio Mirteto.

The village of two carnivals

Poggio Mirteto is known as the village of two carnivals: the Carnevalone Liberato is complemented by the older and more traditional Carnevalone Poggiano, which features allegorical float parades during the canonical weeks. These are two souls of the same community—one festive and familiar, the other irreverent and political—that together tell the story of the Sabina village's identity.

Why it's worth the trip

Just over 50 kilometers from Rome and reachable by train in less than an hour, the Carnevalone Liberato offers visitors a rare experience: an authentically popular street festival, without tickets or tourist filters, set in a medieval village overlooking the Tiber Valley. Those who arrive in the morning have time to visit the historic center, the Porta Farnese, and the Baroque churches before the square fills up.