Italy's oldest horse race: a bareback competition in Piazza Alfieri
The Asti Palio is a bareback horse race held in the heart of the historic center of Asti, a provincial capital in south-eastern Piedmont, in the Monferrato area. Its first documented mention dates back to 1275, when the chronicler Guglielmo Ventura recounted that the people of Asti ran the palio beneath the walls of their rival, Alba: this makes it the oldest palio race in Italy, with over 750 years of history.
The race takes place in Piazza Alfieri, where up to twenty-one horses compete in elimination heats and a final. Each horse represents one of the fourteen city districts (Borghi and Rioni) and seven municipalities of the province, including Baldichieri, Canelli, Castell'Alfero, Moncalvo, Montechiaro, Nizza Monferrato, and San Damiano. The winner is awarded the painted banner, the "palio" that gives the competition its name, which is then proudly kept by the winning district or municipality.
Before the race, the streets of Asti's center fill with one of Italy's most evocative historical pageants: over 1,200 participants in medieval costume parade from the Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta to Piazza Alfieri, crossing Corso Alfieri, Piazza San Secondo, and the city center. The costumes are faithful reproductions created by theatrical tailors, inspired by medieval paintings and frescoes. Each group is preceded by its own banner and brings a specific historical theme to life.
The Palio is part of the celebrations for San Secondo, the patron saint of Asti, and represents the most anticipated event of the year for the city and the entire province. It is not just a race, but the moment when every district reaffirms its identity: months of preparation, horse trials, propitiatory dinners, and the famous May rites accompany the community until the Sunday of the race.
The 2026 edition of the Asti Palio will take place on Sunday, September 6, 2026, in Piazza Alfieri, preceded by a week of celebrations and Palio rites that animate the city. The historical pageant is dedicated to the theme "From the fairs of Europe to the castles of Roero: the art of trade that made the city great", a tribute to the merchants of Asti who made the city great through their dialogue with all of Europe.
Among the twenty-one districts and municipalities competing, the official pairings between jockeys and neighborhoods have already been announced, with the presence of established champions of the Palio world. The May rites, with the "Stima del Palio" and the flag-waver qualifications, have traditionally opened the Palio year leading up to the Sunday of the race.
The schedule follows the established pattern of recent editions in Piazza Alfieri:
Detailed schedules are published by the organization in the weeks preceding the race.
Asti is served by the railway station on the Turin-Genoa line, just a few minutes' walk from the historic center. By car, take the Asti Est or Asti Ovest exit from the A21 Turin-Piacenza motorway. During the Palio, the city center is closed to traffic: it is advisable to use peripheral parking lots.
The race in Piazza Alfieri can be viewed from the grandstands (paid, advance booking recommended) or from the parterre at a reduced rate. The historical pageant along the streets of the center is free to attend.
Arrive well in advance to secure a good spot along the parade route. September in Asti also coincides with the Douja d'Or and the Festival delle Sagre: an excellent opportunity to discover the gastronomy of the Monferrato region.
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Piazza Vittorio Alfieri
Piazza Vittorio Alfieri, 14100 Asti