A historical re-enactment of the 1512 famine in San Quirico di Vernio, in the Bisenzio Valley
The Polenta Festival, also known as the Festival of Misery or Pulendina, is one of the oldest and most deeply rooted historical re-enactments in Tuscany. It takes place in San Quirico di Vernio, a village in the municipality of Vernio, located in the picturesque Bisenzio Valley in the province of Prato. Traditionally held on the first Sunday of Lent, the event attracts thousands of visitors and numerous historical delegations from all over the region every year.
The festival commemorates a real event that occurred in 1512. That year, following the arrival of Spanish troops in Tuscany and the tragic Sack of Prato, the population of the valley was struck by a severe famine. The Counts Bardi, lords of the Vernio fiefdom, ordered the free distribution of food to the starving population: sweet chestnut flour polenta, herring, and salt cod. That gesture of solidarity has remained etched in the collective memory and is re-enacted every year with great participation.
The highlight of the festival is the historical pageant in costume, which sets off on Sunday morning and winds through the town to the town square. It includes authorities, guests, and numerous Tuscan historical groups: the Conti Bardi Historical Group, the Society of Misery, the Florentine Historical Football, the Bear Joust of Pistoia, the Valletti Group of the Municipality of Prato, the Star Joust of Bagno a Ripoli, the Musicians of the Saracen Joust of Arezzo, flag-wavers, the City of Pisa Musicians, and the Giuseppe Verdi Philharmonic of Luicciana. In the square, the performers line up along the steps of the Oratory of San Niccolò, creating a highly evocative scene.
After the reading of the historical parchment and official greetings, the ancient gesture is renewed: the free distribution of sweet polenta made from chestnut flour, accompanied by herring and salt cod, according to a recipe passed down for generations. It is the most anticipated moment, where tradition, memory, and conviviality merge.
The chestnut has always been a key element of the economy and culture of the Bisenzio Valley. For this reason, the festival pairs the re-enactment with a conference dedicated to chestnut cultivation, providing an opportunity for dialogue between tradition and innovation with experts, scholars, and local producers.
Organized by the Municipality of Vernio together with the Society of Misery and the Conti Bardi Historical Group, the Polenta Festival is a free, open-air event that combines history, folklore, and gastronomy. For those visiting the most authentic side of Tuscany, away from the classic tourist circuits, it is the ideal opportunity to discover the popular traditions of the Bisenzio Valley.
The 448th edition of the Vernio Polenta Festival took place over the weekend of February 21-22, 2026, confirming the vitality of one of Tuscany's oldest historical re-enactments. On Saturday, February 21, at 4:00 PM, the Council Hall of the Town Hall hosted the conference Chestnuts between Tradition and Innovation, dedicated to chestnut cultivation in the Bisenzio Valley. Sunday, February 22, was the highlight: at 9:30 AM, the historical pageant departed, followed by the reading of the parchment and official greetings at noon, and the distribution of sweet chestnut polenta with herring and salt cod at 12:30 PM.
San Quirico di Vernio is located in the Bisenzio Valley, along the SR325 road, about 25 km from Prato. By car: take the Vaiano-Vernio exit from the A1 motorway, then follow the SR325 north. By train: Vernio-Montepiano-Cantagallo station on the Bologna-Prato-Florence line, with shuttle services or local buses to San Quirico.
The festival traditionally takes place on the first Sunday of Lent, with events also held on the preceding Saturday.
Free admission. The distribution of sweet polenta, herring, and salt cod is free.
During the pageant, traffic changes are expected on the SR325: we recommend arriving early and following signs for parking. Please wear clothing suitable for the winter season.
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San Quirico di Vernio - Piazza del Comune
Piazza del Comune, 20, 59024 Vernio