Focaccette cooked in red-hot terracotta discs in the heart of Lunigiana
Every spring, the small village of Valenza, in the municipality of Aulla (in the province of Massa-Carrara, in Lunigiana, the northernmost corner of Tuscany), comes alive for the Valenza Focaccette Festival. It is one of those village feasts that tell the story of a territory through its food: the absolute stars are the focaccette, a humble and ancient preparation of Lunigiana cuisine, served here hot and fragrant just as tradition dictates.
Focaccette are thin, unleavened flatbreads made by mixing wheat flour with a little cornmeal, salt, natural yeast, and water. A written record from 1881, in Raffaello Raffaelli's agricultural monograph, notes that "in lower Lunigiana, they make great use of certain corn flatbreads cooked in terracotta discs." The secret lies in the cooking: the terracotta testi (or iron alternatives) are heated until red-hot over a fire and then stacked on top of each other, with the focaccetta enclosed between two hot discs that cook it with their intense heat.
Once ready, the focaccette are enjoyed with fillings: local cured meats and cheeses, especially pancetta and lardo, perhaps with a drop of honey, or the typical "chiodo" (a local pork sausage). It is a rustic street food that has survived for generations and can be tasted fresh out of the oven in Valenza.
In addition to the focaccette, the festival's food stalls offer grilled meats and numerous other specialties from this flourishing area of northern Tuscany, accompanied by the genuine flavors of Lunigiana. The event takes place in a location with ample space both outdoors and indoors, ensuring visitors can be accommodated and the festival can continue even in the event of bad weather.
Organized by the Pro Loco Valenza Domani Association, the festival is a deeply felt event for the inhabitants of Aulla and the neighboring towns of Lunigiana, who come here to rediscover the flavors of their childhood in a familiar and convivial atmosphere. For those visiting the area, it is also the perfect opportunity to discover a signature product of the territory and combine it with a walk through the villages, castles, and abbeys of this part of Tuscany that remains largely untouched by mass tourism.
The Valenza Focaccette Festival returned in 2026 with its proven format over two weekends: the first on Saturday 16 and Sunday 17 May, the second and final one on Saturday 23 and Sunday 24 May. The food stalls, set up in the spacious indoor and outdoor areas of the village of Valenza in Aulla, opened on Saturday evenings from 7:00 PM for dinner and on Sundays for lunch, starting at 12:00 PM.
The protagonists were the unmissable focaccette cooked in red-hot terracotta discs and filled with local cured meats and cheeses, accompanied by grilled meat and other tasty traditional Lunigiana specialties. A community event organized by the Pro Loco Valenza Domani.
As this is a village festival, the offerings revolve around traditional cuisine; no detailed program of performances is published.
Valenza, a village in the municipality of Aulla (54011), province of Massa-Carrara, in Lunigiana (Northern Tuscany).
By car: Aulla is accessible via the A15 Parma-La Spezia motorway (Aulla exit) and the A12, from which you continue towards the interior of Lunigiana. By train: the Aulla Lunigiana station is on the Parma-La Spezia line (Pontremolese). From Aulla, the village of Valenza can be reached in a few minutes by car.
The food stalls open on Saturday evenings from 7:00 PM for dinner and on Sundays starting at lunchtime from 12:00 PM.
The areas are partially covered, so the festival takes place even in bad weather. For updated information, it is useful to contact the local Pro Loco or Lunigiana tourist operators.
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Valenza di Aulla