Christmas in the Castelli Romani, between the halls of Palazzo Ruspoli and the alleys overlooking the lake
Presepi nel Borgo is the historic Christmas event in the town of Nemi, in the province of Rome, Lazio. Established in the mid-nineties and reaching its 31st edition in 2025-2026, the exhibition guides visitors from the Feast of the Immaculate Conception until early February along a path that weaves together nativity art, popular devotion, and landscape. Nemi, one of the smallest and most photographed villages in the Castelli Romani, offers a rare setting during this season: houses clinging to the ridge, the volcanic lake below, and, inside the noble halls, dozens of handmade nativities.
The heart of the event is the Sala d'Armi of Palazzo Ruspoli, the castle that dominates the town's main square and hosts the Nativity Scene Art Exhibition, now in its seventh year. Here, large-scale nativity scenes in the traditional style are displayed: sets featuring houses, workshops, fountains, and moving figures, built in the preceding months by local amateur artisans. The theme changes every year. In the 2025-2026 edition, inspiration was drawn from the watercolors of Roma sparita (Vanished Rome) by Ettore Roesler Franz, specifically the Jewish Ghetto with the Portico d'Ottavia: in the foreground, a tavern, a fountain, and a market; behind them, a rotating structure revealing four small squares dedicated to the Annunciation, the Search for Lodging, the Nativity, and the Adoration of the Magi.
The exhibition is complemented by the scenic nativity scene set up in the parish church of Santa Maria del Pozzo, with the Church of the Santissimo Crocifisso also participating in some editions. The creation is entrusted to the nativity section of the Confraternita del SS. Sacramento, which works with the Amici del Presepe di Nemi group under the patronage of the Municipality: a voluntary and community effort that has become part of the town's identity.
Since 2023, Nemi has participated in the inter-municipal itinerary L'Arte del Presepe nei Borghi, which reached its third edition in 2025-2026. The network brings together eight towns between the Castelli Romani and the Monti Prenestini — Albano Laziale, Artena, Carpineto Romano, Cave, Monte Porzio Catone, Nemi, Palestrina, and Valmontone — offering a widespread exhibition of traditional and contemporary nativity scenes in the historic centers. The route is free and designed as a true journey of discovery through the villages of Lazio, perfect for a multi-day trip.
During the same period, the village offers its own Christmas program, featuring over a hundred fairy-tale themed lighting and scenic installations, exhibitions, concerts, and the traditional descent of the Befana from the castle for children. Everything is free to enter. Gastronomy is also a highlight: the wild strawberries, Nemi's signature product, and the cuisine of the Castelli Romani accompany your visit to the local establishments in the center.
For those visiting the Castelli Romani during the holidays, Presepi nel Borgo is a stop that combines craftsmanship, religious tradition, and one of the most beautiful panoramas in the province of Rome within just a few hundred meters.
The 2025-2026 edition of Presepi nel Borgo opened on December 8, 2025, and continued until February 2, 2026, in the town of Nemi (Rome, Lazio). At the Sala d'Armi of Palazzo Ruspoli, the 7th Nativity Scene Art Exhibition featured large-scale nativities in the traditional style, with a main display inspired by the watercolors of Roma sparita by Ettore Roesler Franz and the Jewish quarter with the Portico d'Ottavia.
In the foreground, a tavern, a fountain, and a Roman market; in the background, a rotating structure that revealed four small squares of the ghetto dedicated to the Annunciation, the Search for Lodging, the Nativity, and the Adoration of the Magi. In the parish church of Santa Maria del Pozzo, visitors could see the scenic nativity scene curated by the nativity section of the Confraternita del SS. Sacramento with the Amici del Presepe di Nemi.
Nemi also participated in the 3rd edition of the L'Arte del Presepe nei Borghi itinerary, along with Albano Laziale, Artena, Carpineto Romano, Cave, Monte Porzio Catone, Palestrina, and Valmontone, and complemented the exhibition with the village's Christmas program featuring over a hundred fairy-tale themed lighting installations.
Palazzo Ruspoli, Sala d'Armi, Piazza Umberto I. Large-scale nativities in the traditional style; main display inspired by the Roma sparita of Ettore Roesler Franz and the Jewish ghetto with the Portico d'Ottavia, with a rotating structure featuring four scenes (Annunciation, Search for Lodging, Nativity, Adoration of the Magi).
Parish Church of Santa Maria del Pozzo; on some days, the Church of the Santissimo Crocifisso was also open to visitors.
Over a hundred fairy-tale themed lighting and scenic installations in the village, exhibitions, concerts, and the descent of the Befana from the castle. Inter-municipal itinerary L'Arte del Presepe nei Borghi (3rd edition) with seven other municipalities of the Castelli Romani and Monti Prenestini.
Palazzo Ruspoli (Sala d'Armi), Piazza Umberto I, 00040 Nemi (RM). Scenic nativity scene in the parish Church of Santa Maria del Pozzo, just a few steps away.
Hours may vary: it is recommended to check before visiting.
Free and open to the public.
By car: Via Appia (SS7) or Via dei Laghi, exit for Nemi; the historic center is pedestrianized, parking is available at the entrance to the village. By train and bus: From Rome Termini station, take Cotral lines for the Castelli Romani via Genzano or Velletri. About 40 minutes from the Grande Raccordo Anulare.
Municipality of Nemi: +39 06 9365011. Pro Loco: +39 371 4578705.
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Palazzo Ruspoli - Sala d'Armi
Piazza Umberto I, 00040 Nemi