The Irpinian village of Torella dei Lombardi transforms into a Western town in honor of Sergio Leone
There is a moment in the summer when Torella dei Lombardi, a small town in the province of Avellino overlooking the hills of Alta Irpinia, stops being just a village in inland Campania and becomes an open-air film set. For three days, the streets of the historic center fill with wooden signs, makeshift saloons, banks to rob, jails, caravans, and horses: it is Ancient Flavors – From the Wild West to Irpinia, the event that combines the tradition of a village festival with the imagery of Western cinema.
The event is organized by the Pro Loco Candriano with the patronage of the Municipality of Torella dei Lombardi and the artistic direction of Roberto D'Agnese for Omast Eventi. This is not a fleeting novelty: as early as 2019, the festival had already reached its twenty-fifth edition, a sign of a continuity that has accompanied the cultural life of the village for decades.
The Western theme is no random disguise. Torella dei Lombardi is, in fact, the ancestral home of the family of Sergio Leone, the director who rewrote the rules of the genre with his Dollars Trilogy and Once Upon a Time in the West. The event turns this connection into a true tribute: open-air screenings, meetings with witnesses and key figures of Leone's cinema, short films made by local students together with the Sergio Leone Association, book presentations, and in-depth looks at the artistic partnership between the director and Ennio Morricone.
Among the most anticipated guests of recent editions was Enzo Santaniello, the "little McBain" from Once Upon a Time in the West, invited to share his memories of the set and the master's legacy with the audience gathered in the village.
The festival's soundtrack follows the same imaginary geography. On the stages set up in the squares, country, blues, and folk bands take turns, with evening concerts and traveling shows that lead visitors from one corner of the town to another. Over the years, beloved names from the Campania and Southern Italian scene have passed through here, from Eugenio Bennato to the Blue Stuff, alongside bands specializing in overseas repertoires.
Musical performances are accompanied by traveling Western re-enactments curated by specialized companies, quick-draw duels, parades by local folk groups, and entertainment dedicated to children, making the event suitable for families as well.
The name of the festival reminds us that, even before the spectacle, there is the table. The food stalls set up along the route offer dishes from Irpinian peasant cuisine and typical products of Alta Irpinia: an area known for its great appellation wines, mountain cheeses, cured meats, and a tradition of rustic cooking made of fresh pasta, legumes, and vegetables. Tastings accompany every evening and continue into the daytime hours on the final day.
Torella dei Lombardi preserves a compact historic center, dominated by the Candriano-Ruspoli Castle, which in past editions has hosted the festival's inauguration and tastings in the courtyard. The town is located in the inland area of Campania that was severely hit by the 1980 earthquake and is now committed to a path of regeneration: it is no coincidence that the program also reserves space for conferences on urban regeneration and the enhancement of villages, promoted together with the professional orders of the province of Avellino.
From July 3 to 5, 2026, the village of Torella dei Lombardi, in the province of Avellino, hosted a new edition of Ancient Flavors – From the Wild West to Irpinia, organized by the Pro Loco Candriano with the patronage of the Municipality and the artistic direction of Roberto D'Agnese for Omast Eventi.
The common thread was the tribute to Sergio Leone, whose family roots are in Torella: open-air screenings, a short film made by students of the Criscuoli Institute together with the Sergio Leone Association, the presentation of the book "The Story of Ulysses S. Grant" by Stefano Jacurti, and above all the meeting with Enzo Santaniello, who played the "little McBain" in Once Upon a Time in the West.
The musical part alternated country, blues, and folk with bands such as Frogs, Walking Trees, Mandolino Blues, Fabio Hollerin Clarizia, and Maxie Freeman & Band, culminating in the concert-show "Ennio Morricone – The Sound of a Life". Through the streets of the town, the traveling shows of the La Frontiera del Sogno – Meatfield Town association reconstructed the atmosphere of Leone's films, while food stalls offered typical dishes and products of Alta Irpinia.
By car: Torella dei Lombardi can be reached from the A16 Naples-Canosa motorway, taking the Lioni-Grottaminarda exit depending on your direction, then continuing along the SS 7 Ofantina and the provincial roads of Alta Irpinia. From Avellino, it is about 40 km east.
By train: the most convenient nearby stations are Avellino and Grottaminarda-Ariano Irpino, followed by a bus connection. By plane: the reference airport is Naples-Capodichino, about 100 km away.
During the event, the historic center is closed to traffic and set up as a Western village: it is best to leave your car in the parking areas at the entrance to the town and continue on foot. The village streets are sloped and partially paved: comfortable shoes are recommended.
The days come alive especially from late afternoon until late at night, with evening concerts. The organizers have not released an admission price list: food and drinks at the stalls are paid for separately.
Pro Loco Candriano — tel. +39 0827 49291 — [email protected]. Updates and program on the event's Facebook page.
Local accommodation consists of small guesthouses, farmhouses, and historic residences in the village; alternatively, you can stay in Lioni, Sant'Angelo dei Lombardi, or Nusco, all just a few kilometers away.
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Centro storico di Torella dei Lombardi
Via Camillo Ruspoli 4, 83057 Torella dei Lombardi