The sacred Passion play at dawn on Good Friday, in the heart of the Madonie mountains
Every year, at the crack of dawn on Good Friday, the village of Collesano, nestled in the Madonie mountains in the province of Palermo, relives one of the most evocative and deeply felt rites of the Sicilian Holy Week: 'A Cerca, also known as the Casazza. It is a true sacred representation that stages the mystery of the Passion and death of Jesus Christ along the village streets.
The origins of 'A Cerca date back to the second half of the 17th century (tradition traces it to 1667) through the initiative of the Confraternity of the Most Holy Crucifix, which still manages its entire organization today. The rite is rooted in the ancient Genoese Casazze—Passion plays that reached Sicily in the 16th century and were adapted by local confraternities, bearing similarities to French mystères and English mystery plays.
The procession begins at the first light of day from the Church of Santa Maria la Vecchia in the ancient Bavarino district, concluding around noon. Leading the procession are the hooded brothers, wearing long white tunics cinched with a cord, dark brown capes, white hoods with eye slits, and crowns of thorns. They carry the objects of the Passion, which hold deep symbolic value: the crown of thorns, nails, hammer, pincers, ladder, lance, dice, Veronica's veil, and the cross with the INRI inscription.
They are followed by costumed actors: Jesus carrying the cross, the Madonna, the disciples, Roman guards, and young angels. The procession winds through the main streets of the historic center, stopping at the village churches and designated spots that symbolize the Stations of the Cross, including the three falls of Jesus.
The 'A Cerca takes place in reverent silence, broken only by the mournful roll of drums, funeral marches, and trumpet blasts that set the pace. The repertoire of funeral marches is also curated by the "Pierluigi da Palestrina" Musical Association. There are also elements of agrarian and pre-Christian symbolism: the laurieddi (cereal grains sprouted in the dark), oranges, and fennel, which refer to ancient beliefs linked to the regeneration of nature.
The Good Friday rites in Collesano culminate in two solemn processions: the morning 'A Cerca, an itinerant Way of the Cross, and the evening "a Morti e Passioni" procession, featuring all the village confraternities. In the evening, the statues of the Dead Christ, the Our Lady of Sorrows, Saint John, and Mary Magdalene are carried through the streets, accompanied by the confraternities of the Rosary, the Most Holy Sacrament, Mary Most Holy of Miracles, and the Most Holy Crucifix.
The 'A Cerca represents a precious testimony to the popular religiosity of the Madonie and all of Sicily. Experiencing the crossing of the village of Collesano at dawn, amidst hooded brothers and funeral marches, means immersing oneself in a tradition that has been alive for over three centuries, continuing to involve the entire community of Collesano and attracting visitors and devotees from across the province of Palermo.
The 2026 edition of 'A Cerca of Collesano was held on Friday, April 3, 2026, Good Friday, as part of the Holy Week calendar of rites that took place in Collesano from March 29 to April 5.
At dawn, the procession departed from the Church of Santa Maria la Vecchia: the hooded brothers opened the procession carrying the symbols of the Passion, followed by costumed actors who brought the Stations of the Cross to life along the streets of the historic center, amidst drum rolls and funeral marches. In the evening, the "a Morti e Passioni" procession took place with the statues of the Dead Christ and Our Lady of Sorrows.
By car from Palermo: Take the A19 PA-CT motorway to the Buonfornello exit, then the SS 113 towards Campofelice di Roccella, and finally the SP 9 (about 13 km of uphill road towards the Madonie).
From Catania: A19 to Scillato, then SP 9bis. From Messina: A20 PA-ME to Cefalù, SS 113 to Campofelice, then SP 9.
'A Cerca takes place at dawn on Good Friday (procession from the first light of morning until noon). The evening "a Morti e Passioni" procession is held on the same day, in the evening.
Access to the historic center is free. We recommend comfortable clothing suitable for the cool morning air of the Madonie, and arriving early to find a spot along the route. Collesano is about an hour from Cefalù, making it an ideal destination for a stay between the sea and the mountains.
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Centro storico di Collesano