Living Chess

The Living Chess of Castelvetro

In the heart of Emilia-Romagna, perched on the first hills overlooking the Modenese plain, the ancient village of Castelvetro di Modena preserves one of the region's most spectacular traditions. Its central square, Piazza Roma, is paved like a huge black and white stone chessboard: for over fifty years, every even year, this paving becomes the natural stage for the Living Chess, a grand game played by live figures.

A Game That Becomes a Spectacle

On the chessboard square, young men and women transform into pawns and queens, while ladies and knights in Renaissance attire move the pieces of a royal game. The re-enactment is not just a game: around the board, aerial and vertical dances, evocative fire shows, and theatrical moments intertwine, all guided by a narrator who takes the audience on an authentic journey back in time. The spectacle comes alive in the evening hours, when the lights and costumes recreate the full atmosphere of a 16th-century court.

Historical Roots

The event has its roots in an episode from 1564, when the noble Rangoni family, lords of Castelvetro, organized a celebration in honor of the poet Torquato Tasso. According to tradition, the poet, a restless spirit fleeing from Bologna, found refuge here and drew inspiration for some verses of his *Gerusalemme Liberata* from these very hills. The Living Chess re-enacts that very court and those Renaissance celebrations.

The Art of Costume

The heart of the re-enactment lies in the precious Renaissance costumes, entirely hand-embroidered by volunteers of the '500 a Castelvetro Living Chess Association. These costumes, true works of textile craftsmanship, are exhibited throughout the year in the permanent exhibition *Golden Threads in the Palace*, set up in the historic center of the Municipality.

An Alternating Tradition

The Living Chess takes place in the even years, while in the odd years the village hosts the Festa a Castello (Castle Festival), during which the public itself wears period costumes and participates in a Renaissance banquet. Together, the two events make Castelvetro one of the symbolic places for historical re-enactments in the province of Modena and throughout Emilia-Romagna.