La Mascra – Castiglione Messer Marino Carnival

La Mascra, a millenary carnival ritual in Abruzzo

Every year, on the last Sunday of Carnival, the village of Castiglione Messer Marino, in the heart of the Alto Vastese area in the province of Chieti, relives one of its most profound identity rituals: La Mascra, the historic procession of carnival masks that winds through the streets of the old town. This is no simple parade, but a genuine popular performance rooted in the ancient Apennine carnivals linked to the rural and pastoral culture of the Abruzzo mountains.

Lu Pulgenella, the iconic mask

The absolute protagonist is "lu Pulgenella", a local variation of Pulcinella. Dressed in white and adorned with colorful pom-poms, he wears imposing conical headdresses called "cappìlle", between 70 and 100 centimeters tall, handcrafted with tall feathers, paper flowers, and "zagarelle", long ribbons of colored paper. At his waist, he carries leather belts with cowbells and wields the "scrujazze", whips that serve as symbols of authority: they lead the procession's path, organize its formation, set the stops, and keep the crowd at bay while the masks perform burlesque scenes.

According to anthropological studies, the Pulcinella of Castiglione is an ancestral figure acting as a master of ceremonies and an intermediary between the world of the living and the dead: the blackened face and white suit recall a connection to the afterlife, while the pointed hat is considered one of the most archaic headdresses of magical figures. The procession consists of local men, many dressed as women, accompanied by Pulcinellas of different ages who perform circular dances to the rhythm of "zumbarèlle".

A carnival studied across Europe

The Carnival of Castiglione Messer Marino has been the subject of study within the European project "Carnival King of Europe", coordinated by the Museum of Uses and Customs of the Trentino People in San Michele all'Adige. Its extraordinary archaic nature has led, in recent years, to the candidacy of "lu Pulgenella" as UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage. Each edition draws enthusiasts and visitors from neighboring towns in Abruzzo and Molise to Castiglione, attracted by the scenographic power of the masks and the authentic atmosphere of the village.

Traditional flavors

The festival is also a gastronomic occasion. The typical dish of the Castiglione Carnival is "sagne al cotturo", a pasta traditionally eaten with the hands, dressed with fresh tomatoes, basil, garlic, and olive oil, sometimes enriched with legumes or guanciale. A humble, convivial dish that has accompanied the village's celebrations for centuries.

A heritage of the Municipality of Castiglione Messer Marino

La Mascra represents the soul of the Municipality of Castiglione Messer Marino and one of the most vibrant expressions of folklore in the mountain Abruzzo region. For the inhabitants, it is much more than a festival: it is the annual reaffirmation of a community identity passed down from generation to generation, where every gesture, every sound, and every mask tells the story of an entire town.