The August Carnival of the Alto Oltrepò, among the most evocative traditions of Lombardy
In Cegni, a small hamlet of Santa Margherita di Staffora, in the province of Pavia and in the heart of the Alto Oltrepò, something unusual happens: Carnival is celebrated twice a year. One in winter, on Shrove Saturday, and one in summer, on August 16th, when the famous White Carnival takes place. A double celebration that makes Cegni one of the most unique places of Lombard folklore.
The decision to have a second Carnival arose in the seventies. The depopulation of mountain villages, accelerated by the economic boom, prevented many emigrants from returning home in February for the winter festival. It was therefore decided to celebrate a second one in mid-summer, when the village repopulates. It is called "White" because, at the behest of the parish priest at the time, masks that covered the face were forbidden: the protagonists thus perform with their faces uncovered.
The heart of the festival is the comic representation of the wedding between two symbolic characters: 'il Brutto', who flaunts exaggerated wealth with flashy clothes and colorful ribbons, and 'la Povera Donna', humbly dressed with an apron and shawl and traditionally played by a man. It is an amusing parody rich in meaning, accompanied by the typical dances and songs of the Quattro Province (the border area between Pavia, Alessandria, Genoa, and Piacenza), with the sound of the 'piffero' (a type of oboe) and the accordion.
The White Carnival of Cegni attracts about a thousand visitors each year, drawn by one of the most authentic performances in the Lombard Apennines. For those exploring the Oltrepò Pavese in summer, ascending to this mountain village to witness the festival is an experience that tells, better than a thousand words, the culture of the Quattro Province.
For 2026, the White Carnival of Cegni is scheduled for August 16th, as per tradition. In the hamlet of Santa Margherita di Staffora, the comic representation of the wedding between 'Il Brutto' and 'La Povera Donna' will take place, with masked processions with uncovered faces through the village streets, accompanied by musical groups and traditional dances of the Quattro Province.
The detailed program and times will be announced in the weeks preceding the event by the local organization.
The detailed program and times for the 2026 edition will be announced in the preceding weeks. The traditional structure of the day includes:
The representation of the wedding between 'Il Brutto' and 'La Povera Donna' and the dances of the Quattro Province.
Cegni is a hamlet of Santa Margherita di Staffora, in the Alta Val Staffora of the Oltrepò Pavese. It can be reached by car by driving up the valley from Varzi; the mountain roads require attention.
The White Carnival is held every year on August 16th. A second edition, the Winter Carnival, takes place on Shrove Saturday in February.
No photos yet. Share yours!
5 photos max, 5 MB per photo (JPG, PNG, WebP)
Help us keep this listing up to date. Every proposal is verified by our team before publication.
No rating yet — be the first!
No comments yet. Be the first!
Share your experience with the community.
Frazione di Cegni
Cegni, 27050 Santa Margherita di Staffora