Good Friday rites in a village near Messina
In the heart of Holy Week, the village of San Filippo del Mela, in the province of Messina, experiences one of the most intense and identity-defining moments of its religious calendar: the Varette procession on Good Friday, accompanied by the solemn town Via Crucis. It is an event anticipated all year round, capable of drawing in both the faithful and visitors while bringing the town's generations together.
The "Varette" — also known as "barette" — are small triumphal floats that depict various episodes from the Passion of Christ. They are carried on the shoulders of citizens through the streets of the center in a slow, solemn procession that transforms the entire village into a grand path of meditation. Each sculptural group tells a stage of the journey toward Calvary, bringing to life a true itinerant sacred representation that traverses the streets and squares of San Filippo del Mela.
Among the most emotional highlights of the day is the meeting between the Addolorata and the Ecce Homo, which symbolizes the sorrow and hope at the center of the Good Friday tradition. Also characteristic is the presence of the babbaluci, hooded penitents who recall ancient brotherhoods and echo the Easter rites widespread throughout the Messina area, from Barcellona Pozzo di Gotto to neighboring towns. The Via Crucis accompanying the procession marks the stations of the Passion with moments of prayer and reflection.
The event is not merely a religious rite: in San Filippo del Mela, it represents an authentic cultural and social heritage, capable of involving families, the young, and the elderly along the entire route. Holy Week in the village is particularly rich: in addition to the Varette, the community stages a well-attended Sacred Representation of the Passion, with Palm Sunday and living tableaux that animate Piazza Liberazione and the spaces around the Mother Church of Saints Filippo and Giacomo.
San Filippo del Mela is a small town in northeastern Sicily, overlooking the plain of Milazzo, in the province of Messina. Its majestic Mother Church, dedicated to Saints Filippo and Giacomo and linked to the name of architect Gian Battista Vaccarini, houses eighteenth-century wooden statues and serves as the backdrop for the Holy Week rites. Popular devotion, combined with the charm of the historic center, makes the Varette procession one of the most characteristic faith-based events in the Tyrrhenian area of Messina.
For Good Friday 2026, San Filippo del Mela renewed its most evocative appointment. Friday, April 3rd, from 7:00 PM, the Varette — the triumphal floats depicting the episodes of the Passion of Christ — were carried on shoulders through the streets of the historic center in a procession accompanied by the town's Via Crucis.
The most heartfelt moments of the local tradition were present: the meeting between the Addolorata and the Ecce Homo and the presence of the babbaluci, the hooded penitents who recall the ancient brotherhoods of the Messina area. The evening was part of the broader Holy Week program of the village, experienced by the entire community.
The procession takes place on Good Friday in the evening. In 2026, it was held on Friday, April 3rd, starting at 7:00 PM.
Historic center of San Filippo del Mela (ME), with the start and key points around the Mother Church of Saints Filippo and Giacomo. Admission is free.
San Filippo del Mela can be reached via the A20 Messina-Palermo motorway (Milazzo exit), just a few kilometers from the center of Milazzo. The reference railway station is Milazzo, on the Tyrrhenian line.
As this is a deeply felt sacred rite, respectful clothing and behavior are recommended. Arriving a little early helps in finding a good viewing spot along the procession route.
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Centro storico di San Filippo del Mela