Napoleonic masks open the most unusual carnival in the Alps
The Historical Carnival of Coumba Freida (the "cold valley") is one of the oldest and most evocative traditions of the Aosta Valley, which every year enlivens the municipalities of the Great St. Bernard Valley and Valpelline. Ollomont, in the province of Aosta, is the first town to open the season, kicking off a calendar that runs from January to February in numerous villages.
The absolute protagonists are the 'landzette': masks with covered faces and flamboyant costumes that recall the uniforms of Napoleonic soldiers. According to tradition, in fact, the carnival originates from Napoleon's passage through the Great St. Bernard Pass in 1800. The costumes, entirely handmade, are authentic works of art: adorned with beads, sequins (up to 30,000 per costume!) and small mirrors that reflect light and, according to beliefs, ward off evil spirits. Belts of bells and horse or mule tails complete the disguise, with a strong propitiatory value.
Symbolic figures appear in the procession, such as the bear, representing the arrival of spring, and the color red, a symbol of strength and protection from evil. The masks visit the village families, dance in the streets and squares, sharing food and drinks in a collective ritual that renews community bonds. Custodian of this heritage is also the Meison di Carnaval de la Coumba Freida, an ethnographic museum dedicated to the carnival, housed in the village of Allein.
The 2026 edition of the Historical Carnival of Coumba Freida kicked off in Ollomont on Saturday, January 10, the first stop of the season that crosses the municipalities of the Great St. Bernard Valley and Valpelline. The 'landzette', with their spectacular costumes inspired by Napoleonic uniforms, gathered at 9:00 AM in the Town Hall square before starting the parade from the village of Barliard. At noon, the masked children joined from the hamlet of Voueces, before continuing in the other hamlets and the final celebration. A day that renewed one of the oldest and most iconic rites of the Aosta Valley.
Ollomont is the first stop on the 2026 Coumba Freida calendar, which then continues in other municipalities (Bionaz, Valpelline, Doues, Gignod, Étroubles, Roisan, Saint-Oyen, Allein, Saint-Rhémy-en-Bosses) between January and February.
Ollomont can be reached by car from the A5 motorway (Aosta exit), going up the Valpelline along the SR28. The carnival day includes parades between the main town and its hamlets (Barliard, Voueces).
Tourist office of Étroubles: +39 334 1076943. Visit the Meison di Carnaval de la Coumba Freida in Allein.
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Municipio e frazioni di Ollomont